Engine + Exhaust Swap

[iDemonix]

I know I already had a thread about this but it went a bit off topic so here's a new one.

New engine is in the garage, today my new tyga system + maggot can (maggot will be sold + replaced with carbon/stainless oval when I have time).

Now, my mini is back from the painters Thursday, and although it's not exactly a fun daily drive at the moment (running lean, need service, big exhaust leak in to the cab!), it can make do for a while. So once the mini is back the bike is getting the old lump out, new in and new system.

Right, apart from patience, what do I need to do the job? I've got a full socket set, with knuckles and extension bars. I DON'T have an ABBA stand unfortunately, I do have a rear paddock, that will have to do.

As well as what do I need, what's the best approach? I was thinking:

1. Fairings off
2. Tank off
3. Carbs off
4. Electrical stuff off
5. Rads drained + off
6. Gear linkage, throttle/choke cable etc removed
7. Exhaust removed
8. Trolley jack under engine + undo mounting bolts
9. Lower the engine as far as it'll go, try and get hold of it, move the jack out, and slide it out.

Then as Haynes says, refitting is the reverse of removal!

Or am I wrong?

Final thing, this is a quick one, gear shifter: I want to change it to race-shift, so stamping on the pedal goes up a gear - is this a simple swap round of the gear linkage?

Graeme France when he dropped off the engine left me what I think is a flywheel and a bolt, I think he said the engine has no generator/stator or something? I'll go get a pic and post it...

[iDemonix]

A hole that looks like it should be filled: (hey hey)



And here's what GF left me - maybe he'll read this. He mentioned about using the bolt and tapping something with a hammer to release something - any of this ring any bells for anyone? I'm assuming the big thing is the flywheel and it should have something inside of it that generates electricity, and the wires pass through that empty hole in the pic above?

[lukemillar]

Not 100% sure what the question is?!

Looks like you're just missing the stator. That bolts to the cases and the wires comes up through that hole at the top of the case cover. There are 2 rubber grommets that the wires feed through that fill the majority of the hole. As for the bolt, you only need that to remove the flywheel. To put it back on, you just need to torque up the bolt that holds it in place and it presses onto the end of the crank.

Final thing, this is a quick one, gear shifter: I want to change it to race-shift, so stamping on the pedal goes up a gear - is this a simple swap round of the gear linkage?

Graeme France when he dropped off the engine left me what I think is a flywheel and a bolt, I think he said the engine has no generator/stator or something? I'll go get a pic and post it...

EDIT: I just read the first post as well! Yep - you'll need a stator unless you go total loss (which you wouldn't want to do on a road bike)

Only thing I'll add: Remove the thermostat housing before removing the engine. It just sticks out and is a PITA. Don't bolt it to the new engine until it is in frame.

For the gear shift:- Yep just undo the bolt and turn the linkage 180 degrees. I have mine setup like this.

[CMSMJ1]

Get the service manual for the step by step. You need a 14mm Allen key, castle socket and a helping hand when you are actually dropping the motor out.

[iDemonix]

I thought the castle socket was for the swingarm, and I didn't need to remove this?

Another question I just remembered: My shock absorbers lower bushing nearly failed on the last MOT, it only passed as I'm friends with the tester ha. Would it be possible to replace it whilst on a rear paddock stand somehow? Just because I imagine it'll be an easier job with no exhaust or rear wheel on. Anyone know where to buy them for the standard shock?

[Drunkn Munky]

No you cant work the the suspension with the bike on a paddock stand, you need the rear end supported off the ground, it must be completely shagged for the MOT guy to notice that during an MOT.

Theres a different sized castle nut for the engine. Your be better off getting the front wheel off the bike too to give you a bit more room when swinging the motor out. Also take note when installing the new motor to fit the large flat ish spacer to the bottom right mount before you got it in place or your have a nightmare getting it in.

[iDemonix]

So I need to support the rear subframe and swing arm? Can't remove front wheel, no front stand.

[Drunkn Munky]

No you need to take the load off the rear end, ie by using a Abba stand.

[CRM]

another option Dan, remove everything else off the bike and work on the garden, chuck the bike on its side and remove engine that way.
seriously though, abba stand is the easiest way but having a mate to help is nearly essential at times.

BTW did you get my mail ? we need to catchup ASAP

[lukemillar]

I use axle stands under the rearsets. Use the rear paddock stand to lift up the back and then lower onto the axle stands. It is easier for me since I have fixed footpegs, but you can still do it with OE ones. Just stick a few rags between the stand and the footpegs to protect as well.