Clutch lever won't return.

[Jasonkentvfr]

Hi everyone I am in desperate need of some help. When I got my nc30 the clutch lever would not return when you pulled it, I put this down to a stretched cable. I have since replaced the cable and it is still the same. I then moved onto the clutch mechanism where the cable attaches too and once again this had plenty of spring. So I decided to strip the clutch. I measured all the friction and plain plates all in tolerance as we're the diaphragm springs. So I am stumped. I will say though when I pull the leaver there does not seem to be any resistance ie it does not seem to have any resistance and release the clutch plates. Any help would be most appreciated.

[CMSMJ1]

You'll be needing to check that the little bit of gubbins inside the clutch mechanism has not fallen out. It is a small tab that sits inside the cover adn it is this that presses onto the clutch pushrod. If you take the cover off and look for it it will be obvious ot you. They can become unseated or incorrectly fitted.

If so, you pull the cable, it turns the arm which would push on the rod - this is what is missing IMO.

[Jasonkentvfr]

Thanks cmsmj1 I have had the clutch right out the rod is there as is the bearing and the part the rod locates in. I have looked at the Haynes manual and followed all the steps 3 times as well as checking on parts catalogues to make sure all the parts are there. I find the only way I can get the pressure plate to release the clutch is to put packing around the circlip but even then the lever does not return. It's as bough a spring is missing from somewhere (the spring is located properly where the shaft goes down to the selector rod)

[CMSMJ1]

So - looking at it -

The lever and cable at that end is all good?

The cable comes down the side of the bike, through a locating tab on the genny cover and thence to the arm mechanism.

With the cable removed from the arm, can you hold the end of it and pull the lever - nice and smooth?

Can you also then manually engage the arm and feel whether you have resistance onto the pushrod/pressure plate?

The rotating innards of the mechanism can be installed incorrectly - it has a recess for the small piece I originally referred to. If you put your finger where the gubbins should be, you can feel the ramp up as it rotates. That is definitely in the right area?

Does the pushrod slide smoothly into the hole to press on the plates?

If the actuating mechanism is all good..then you are looking at a slipped or loose centre clutch nut and or weak diaphragm springs. My money on a loose nut..

bit of a ballache to be fiddling with when things just should bloody work!

Welcome to the site btw...

[Jasonkentvfr]

Thanks for all your help. Yes it is a mega ball ache and is doing my head in. To answer your questions
Yes the cable is all fine both ends and is located in the bracket correctly. When I disconnect the cable the mechanism is very smooth and has a certain amount of resistance but only from the spring it does not lift the pressure plate it's as though the clutch rod is too short. I have checked that for straightness and was all fine. As I said I have had the clutch off several times and torqued the clutch nut up to the 85nm that Haynes state. The springs I have checked there height as it states in the Haynes manual and they are in tolerance does this mean they are ok or could they loose there springiness?
As I said earlier if I put a bit of packing between the pressure plate and the outer circlip it does improve

[magg]

I could be wrong but are there not different clutch push rod lengths in the VFR400 model range. Perhaps the previous owner has fitted the wrong rod.

[Jasonkentvfr]

I wondered that. Do you by any chance know what lengths were available then I can rule that out if it is the longer length.

[magg]

Cannot provide length of NC30 rod but from the parts manuals for the NC30 & NC35, there are fewer plates in an NC35 and therefore might have a shorter rod. Perhaps you have an NC35 push rod.