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ggavin
- Settled in member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:26 am
- Bike owned: RVF400
Post
by ggavin » Mon Jul 16, 2012 3:34 pm
Hey everyone!
I recently purchased a set of tyga racing step kits online from tyga-performance.com for my NC35. Received them this morning and finally had time to fit them on, after changing the left side i thought the right would be just as easy. God i was wrong; i had no idea what to do besides removing the bolts. Couldn't find anything in the Haynes manual and the fitting instructions on the tyga site was not very clear to me because of the technical terms

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Okay so here are my questions
http://tyga-performance.com/site/index. ... 69_394_395 it says:
"On brake side remove master cylinder from step hanger and also exhaust heat shield."
- What is the master cylinder?
- Do i need to remove the fairings in order to remove the heat shield?
[URL=
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/img0290pq.jpg/]
- I also purchased the rear brake light switch along with the rear sets, but have no idea how they work
- I need to get this off in order to remove the peg but again i am clueless
[URL=
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/img0289iu.jpg/]
All help will be much appreciated!!
Here is my baby
[URL=
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/img0274hc.jpg/]
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ggavin
- Settled in member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:26 am
- Bike owned: RVF400
Post
by ggavin » Mon Jul 16, 2012 3:35 pm
Hmm the pictures didn't turn out so well LOL. Sorry i am a forum noob =S
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CMSMJ1
- Moderators

- Posts: 7152
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 9:42 am
- Bike owned: NC30-No9
- Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Post
by CMSMJ1 » Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:42 pm
ggavin wrote:Hey everyone!
I recently purchased a set of tyga racing step kits online from tyga-performance.com for my NC35. Received them this morning and finally had time to fit them on, after changing the left side i thought the right would be just as easy. God i was wrong; i had no idea what to do besides removing the bolts. Couldn't find anything in the Haynes manual and the fitting instructions on the tyga site was not very clear to me because of the technical terms

.
Okay so here are my questions
http://tyga-performance.com/site/index. ... 69_394_395 it says:
"On brake side remove master cylinder from step hanger and also exhaust heat shield."
- What is the master cylinder?
This cylinder that piggybacks on the rearset - this is for the rear brake...
- Do i need to remove the fairings in order to remove the heat shield?
No - it bolts to the rearsets - it should be very easy to see how it is removed. You do not put it back on..
[URL=
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/img0290pq.jpg/]
- I also purchased the rear brake light switch along with the rear sets, but have no idea how they work
lol - it replaces the top banjo bolt..
- I need to get this off in order to remove the peg but again i am clueless
All help will be much appreciated!!
Here is my baby
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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ggavin
- Settled in member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:26 am
- Bike owned: RVF400
Post
by ggavin » Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:12 am
Sigh what have i done!!!!
Now the pressure rod wont screw up or down:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/img0293pb.jpg/
I decided to go for a short ride to test out the pegs without the rear brake and now the bike would not even start

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Cammo
- Site Supporter

- Posts: 4505
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 12:35 am
- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
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by Cammo » Wed Jul 18, 2012 4:40 am
lol what a a disaster!
The threaded rod will just keep turning unless you hold the base while you screw it, it's supposed to. There's a flat face on the metal part closest to the body which you can grip while you turn the thread in or out.
I can only imagine you've shorted something if the bike isn't starting, very likely if the rear brake light wiring has touched an earth (exhaust, rearsets etc). Check the main fuse (30 amp) which is on the right-hand side of the bike near the rider's seat, it's on top of the starter relay (red plastic cap covers the fuse). My bet will be the fuse is blown.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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ggavin
- Settled in member
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:26 am
- Bike owned: RVF400
Post
by ggavin » Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:18 am
I see i see, that explains a lot.
I'm especially bad when it comes to the electrical side of things so i might just get a mechanic to check it out for me. So just to confirm, the bike should start fine even if the master cylinder rod isn't connected to the rear brake lever. Also when i try to start the bike it makes a 'tuk' sound near the position where you described, so it may very well be a blown fuse. Is there any other signs i should look for to ensure that it is?
TYVM i appreciate your help!

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CMSMJ1
- Moderators

- Posts: 7152
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 9:42 am
- Bike owned: NC30-No9
- Location: Chesterfield, United Kingdom
Post
by CMSMJ1 » Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:14 am
I replaced the brake switch with a pressure switch - the contacts on the top of this then touched my frame..instand fuse pop.
Take the seat faring off and check the main fuse. Sod paying a mechanic to do something like that (or anything at all to be fair)
Bikes are simple - human beings put them together. It means us human beings can take them apart too!
The bike electrical system has no idea what is going on with the brake master cylinders - the bike will start whatever is happening.
If you press the starter and it clicks on the right side, near the seat - the battery might well be flat and need a jump. The clicking is the starter solenoid - very common to hear it click when there is not enough juice in the battery.
Totally blown main fuse - under the seat - there is a red rubber topped socket with large cables running from it - this is the main fuse and solenoid. The single "tuk" noise will have been the main fuse popping. Turn off the power, undo the fuse holder (it pulls apart) and have a look.. You can get the replacements from any automotive shop and hardware stores. have a look to check that no wiring is touching the frame - I'll bet it is the brake switch.
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate