NC35 Carb Cleaning/Setup Advice

Post by **GFRacingUK** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:36 am

I know this has been covered a fair bit, but I was just after some advice. Firstly cleaning. Ive got a smallish ultrasonic cleaner. Probably would fit one single carb in no probs, but the bank of 4 would need to come apart for this, and that scares the cr@p out of me! even if I take loads of photos I dont dare tackle it. So far Ive just taken each float bowl off and taken jets out and the diaphram cover and needle out and ultrasonic cleaned them. ( cant beleive the dirt that came off just these few parts!)

So am I ok just to clean these parts, or would I be better stripping the whole carbs down?

Secondly setup... I bought the 108 Dynojet replica kit from Graeme France, which also comes with washer shims, but when Ive stripped the carbs Ive found that all carbs are already fitted with 108's all round anyway. and the needles are shimmed already! My bike has a big flatspot at 5k rpm , which was one of the reasons for stripping the carbs.

Also balancing and setting the air screws. Ive neen reading Camo's guide for airscrew setting, is this the exact same settings for the Nc35? as the guide seems to be tailored to the Nc30

So whats the best way forward now? Im a bit stuck.

Thanks for any advice on this.

Post by **Drunkn Munky** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:20 pm

108's are standard jets for the 35 so not sure what you've been sold there, dynojets do flow slightly better so maybe thats the idea?? You could try a extra 0.5mm washer or replace the stock 0.5mm washer with a 1mm one to cure the midrange flatspot, HRC slide springs also work well in 35 carbs.

What system are you using?

Post by **GFRacingUK** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:45 pm

hi fella, it's a standard 35 system with an aftermarket end can (which I asked about a while ago on here as its unmarked. the general consensus was that it's a Viper end can). it's unbaffled, pretty loud. I'm running the standard air box and Honda filter.

I didn't realise the needles were already fitted with a washer as standard. This is the first time I've ever worked on 4 stroke carbs. I'm used to unblocking keihins on the kr1s!

Post by **skinnydog0_0** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 8:12 pm

I had a chat a while ago with Rick O about this, and as far as i remember he was sure the extra 0.5 washer on the needles for a 35 is NOT needed. the HRC springs get rid of the midrange flatspot on a 35. I used to run 110's front and back with a standard system and end can. I wouldn't personally take the carbs competely apart as they can be a bitch to get back together. Just use a few cans of good quality carb cleaner and soak them then dry them and soak them again.

Post by **Cammo** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:33 am

As said above, fit some of Rick O's hrc replica carb springs which will help richen the midrange (leave the standard washer on the needles).

Dynojets are bigger than keihin jets, you'll 'probably' be alright with the 108 dj's. 112 sized keihins are about right with the standard rvf system and aftermarket muffler. Stock air screw setting for rvf carbs is 1 & 5/8 turns out, try this and see how it goes.

Don't split the carbs unless you absolutely need to...

I have been meaning to get around to doing an rvf jetting guide (similar to the nc30 one), just really time poor at the mo!

Post by **GFRacingUK** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:28 am

Thanks guys, this is all great advice. I'll speak to Rick about ordering the HRC springs, leave the needles on the standard washers, fit the 108 dynojets and see how I go.

Many thanks
Regards
Dan