Met up with a friend today, he said his RC30 battery goes flat [wiring circuit same as nc30] if he switches off the ignition but leaves the headlight switch on [the lamps go out].
Seems odd as the ignition switch feeds power to the lighting switch.
An ideas, apart from possible reg/rect/plug problems that are confusing the issue?
Thanks,
Dave.
Odd flat battery problem, not 400
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Re: Odd flat battery problem, not 400
Possible short to earth in the headlight switch draining teh battery?
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Re: Odd flat battery problem, not 400
The only permanent connection to the battery is the rect/reg, all other power is passed through the ignition switch. Headlight switch in on or off position should make no difference if the ignition switch is in the off position. Could be a faulty rect/reg discharging the battery, try disconnecting it from the loom and see if the battery retrains a charge. Does battery get the correct charge when the engine is running?
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Re: Odd flat battery problem, not 400
Strange one!
I can't remember the wiring diagram but the easiest way to check is to do a current leak.
Switch everything off and remove the earth connection from the battery.
Set your multimeter to Amps and connect from the negative lead you've removed to the battery terminal.
This will once again complete the circuit.. (don't get trying to start the bike, will pull way too many amps and likely fry the meter)
See what your current drain is, it should be practically 0 to a few milliamps.
If it's any higher then there is a short or load on the system (alarm?) taking energy from the battery.
Try switching the headlamp switch on with the igntion off and see if the current increases, this would show that having that switch on is indeed draining the battery more.
If not then it's something else.
If you have an abnormally high current draw with the igition and headlamp switch off then its time to start tracking it down.. you can unplug some connectors to see what stops it, as magg said, the reg/rec has a direct connection so that'd be the first place to start.
I can't remember the wiring diagram but the easiest way to check is to do a current leak.
Switch everything off and remove the earth connection from the battery.
Set your multimeter to Amps and connect from the negative lead you've removed to the battery terminal.
This will once again complete the circuit.. (don't get trying to start the bike, will pull way too many amps and likely fry the meter)
See what your current drain is, it should be practically 0 to a few milliamps.
If it's any higher then there is a short or load on the system (alarm?) taking energy from the battery.
Try switching the headlamp switch on with the igntion off and see if the current increases, this would show that having that switch on is indeed draining the battery more.
If not then it's something else.
If you have an abnormally high current draw with the igition and headlamp switch off then its time to start tracking it down.. you can unplug some connectors to see what stops it, as magg said, the reg/rec has a direct connection so that'd be the first place to start.
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vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: Odd flat battery problem, not 400
That is what I would do if it were mine, [I suggested he checks reg/connectors first, in case that is the real problem, and the switch position just a coincidence] but he lives a fair way from me so I havn't been able to check anything out yet.
I just can't fathom out how the switch could be live with ignition off, and the lamps not lit.
I will probably end up going over to have a look [armed with connector, terminals, crimper and soldering iron]
I just can't fathom out how the switch could be live with ignition off, and the lamps not lit.
I will probably end up going over to have a look [armed with connector, terminals, crimper and soldering iron]
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Re: Odd flat battery problem, not 400
Is there a Possibly a bare/burnt wire from the rec/reg touching the wires for the lights? Or would that blow the fuse?