Interesting Electrical Problem

magg · Post by **magg** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:54 pm

Just a clarification of the model of rect/reg, which year r6 is it?

magg · Post by **magg** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:15 pm

My mistake, a better question would have been what P/N is printed on the rect/reg body.

Username · Post by **Username** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:45 pm

magg wrote:My mistake, a better question would have been what P/N is printed on the rect/reg body.

Can't tell the part number at the moment until the weekend as it's on the bike but the results are the same as the two new UK model rec/regs that I have also tried. It is an early one though, from a carb model.

magg · Post by **magg** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 5:39 am

Another point to check, is there a good thermal connection between the rect/reg and the frame. The rect/reg might be suffering from thermal run-away that is degrading its performace because the internal heat is not transferring to the bike chassis. Sometimes the metal surfaces are not flat and the only thermal link to the frame is the mounting bolts. Best to use thermal transfer compound between the rect/reg and the mounting surface to ensure the heat flows from the rect/reg to the frame.

Username · Post by **Username** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:46 am

Don't think it is a thermal problem withe rec/reg as all three that I've tried are much bigger (more surface area) than the original Honda item and although they get hot, certainly not too hot to touch. I will do some more testing today to see if I can find any clues.

magg · Post by **magg** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:33 pm

A battery voltage measurement while headlights are on high beam would indicate whether there is sufficient output from the alternator. If the battery voltage falls below 13 volts with rpm at 5000 or more then the alternator has a fault.

Username · Post by **Username** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 9:36 pm

Think I found the problem. Tested the alternator again today, 0.1 Ohms and 62 ish Volts @ 5K RPM between each phase. Checked the insulation resistance and it was fine. Connected rec/reg and was getting 14.15V @ 5K RPM across the battery terminals. Warmed the bike up and repeated the checks. Voltage output and continuity were still the same however the insulation resistance seemed to have dropped. I let it get really hot and the insulation resistance just about dropped to zero. I removed the flywheel and the alternator and once again tested the insulation. This time the insulation resistance had returned to infinity. Upon inspection I found that the wiring securing clip within the crankcase had just started to chafe through one of the alternator output wires. I re-insulated the wire and re-positioned the wiring clip away from the repaired area. I re-installed the alternator and checked the insulation resistance which was still infinity. Good so far! I took this opportunity to replace the flywheel with a lightened and balanced one that I had previously obtained.

I took the bike for a ride this evening with both headlights connected and the voltage stayed around 13.8 all the time

(BTW I'm using 60/55 H4 Blue Vision bulbs).

The bike seemed more responsive as well with the lightened flywheel so I may not now bother with thr GSXR conversion.

Thanks for all the replys guys.

magg · Post by **magg** » Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:11 am

Sounds like success, glad you got it up and running.

amaechizzle · Post by **amaechizzle** » Sun Oct 23, 2011 2:36 pm

It gives you that tingly feeling inside when you finally pinpoint the problem and fix it!
Congrats.

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