
Replacing fork seals
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
- jetblack
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- Bike owned: '89 NC30 SEED
- Location: Nottingham
Re: Replacing fork seals
Awesome. Thanks. I'll take a look and see what I can rig up. 

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Re: Replacing fork seals
Bushes often get overlooked but for <£20 it's worth doing, they're likely to be original to the bike and worn out by now.
- jetblack
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Re: Replacing fork seals
Ive ordered the bushes too. :0)
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Re: Replacing fork seals
Hi I have one of my fork seals leaking , I need to sort it out as soon as I get some new ones. I have never done this job , I would love to know how you got on with it jetblack any tips would be great. how did you get the bike up in the end with no stands. I hope it went well for you.
- skinnydog0_0
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Re: Replacing fork seals
Hi I would recomend watching this set of vids on you tube, i know it's a moto x-er, but the forks are pretty much the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2G-b66F3es
I use a car jack under the engine to lift the front off the floor, but if you have fixed peg rear sets, axle stands under these would be far better
As for fork oil, i would stick with what Mr Honda says 10w fork oil (also get all the old oil out and clean inside and outside all the tubes and the damper rod. also best to do it in a really clean place as you dont want any fluff or crap getting in the seals or inside the forks. Also best to use Honda seals they are only a few quid more but you know the quality is going to be spot on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2G-b66F3es
I use a car jack under the engine to lift the front off the floor, but if you have fixed peg rear sets, axle stands under these would be far better

As for fork oil, i would stick with what Mr Honda says 10w fork oil (also get all the old oil out and clean inside and outside all the tubes and the damper rod. also best to do it in a really clean place as you dont want any fluff or crap getting in the seals or inside the forks. Also best to use Honda seals they are only a few quid more but you know the quality is going to be spot on.

An NC is for life, not just for Christmas!
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Re: Replacing fork seals
Put the axel stands under the footpegs (not the bendy part
)
http://www.oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rforks.html
This link might be of some use.. gives you a general outline of the forks.
Work on 1 at a time save mixing parts up.
Crack the intial tension off the top caps while its in the yokes but dont undo them till there off the bikes, the spring tension helps undo the bolt in the bottom.
Drail the fork oil by undoing the drain screw.
Remove wheel / calipers then forks from yokes,
Now with forks out invert them and undo the hex bolt in the bottom, do not use a bad fitting socket / wrecnh youll knacker the threads out.
With the bolt out, make sure you get the copper sealing washer out too (replace this)
turn them the right way up and undo the caps (you did loosen them a bit earlier right?)
with the caps off drop all the stuff out.
Prise off the dust seal and remove the circlip.
Pull the forks hard apart (might take a few times) and the seal and everything will come apart.
Replace the bits as needed (you will need a fork-seal driver or good fitting bit of pipe to tap the new seal in, dont use anythign metal youll break it. Lube up the lip of the fork seal with a touch of fork oil or rubber grease (only rubber grease) just to make it fit better.. wrap 1 turn of electrical tape over the top of the forktube lip too, this will give a nice smooth surface to slide the forkseal over and avoid tearing the end up.
Re-assemble in reverse order..

http://www.oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rforks.html
This link might be of some use.. gives you a general outline of the forks.
Work on 1 at a time save mixing parts up.
Crack the intial tension off the top caps while its in the yokes but dont undo them till there off the bikes, the spring tension helps undo the bolt in the bottom.
Drail the fork oil by undoing the drain screw.
Remove wheel / calipers then forks from yokes,
Now with forks out invert them and undo the hex bolt in the bottom, do not use a bad fitting socket / wrecnh youll knacker the threads out.
With the bolt out, make sure you get the copper sealing washer out too (replace this)
turn them the right way up and undo the caps (you did loosen them a bit earlier right?)
with the caps off drop all the stuff out.
Prise off the dust seal and remove the circlip.
Pull the forks hard apart (might take a few times) and the seal and everything will come apart.
Replace the bits as needed (you will need a fork-seal driver or good fitting bit of pipe to tap the new seal in, dont use anythign metal youll break it. Lube up the lip of the fork seal with a touch of fork oil or rubber grease (only rubber grease) just to make it fit better.. wrap 1 turn of electrical tape over the top of the forktube lip too, this will give a nice smooth surface to slide the forkseal over and avoid tearing the end up.
Re-assemble in reverse order..
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: Replacing fork seals
not being funny but there s about 3 short "how to" already on the first page if folk can read. come on peeps, search. 

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Re: Replacing fork seals
ah thanks guys, great links and good advice too . Its good to know that people are willing to help others with there knowledge . 
