NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
Forum rules
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
- DoktorMandrake
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:37 pm
- Bike owned: NC35 & NC30 x3
NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
Couple of quick ones...
Did the headraces on an NC35 and there's a gap on the left hand wheel spacer. If I get rid of the gap then I can't get the calipers on as they just are a few mil off fitting on the fork mountings but surely the gap should not be there?
Here's a piccie...
[IMG=http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/528/dsc06532g.jpg][/IMG]
Where have I gone wrong?
Also should the fork caps be flush with the top yoke or is there an amount of protrusion if so what?
Ta peeps...
Did the headraces on an NC35 and there's a gap on the left hand wheel spacer. If I get rid of the gap then I can't get the calipers on as they just are a few mil off fitting on the fork mountings but surely the gap should not be there?
Here's a piccie...
[IMG=http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/528/dsc06532g.jpg][/IMG]
Where have I gone wrong?
Also should the fork caps be flush with the top yoke or is there an amount of protrusion if so what?
Ta peeps...
-
- Regular Member
- Posts: 957
- Joined: Sun May 18, 2008 4:51 pm
- Bike owned: CB-1, MSX125
- Location: Gibraltar
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
I don't know about nc35's specifically but what you're looking at usually would mean either you put the spacers in the wrong sides (the RHS one is longer on other hondas using the same wheel) or the forks are bent.
-
- Familiar Member
- Posts: 408
- Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:36 pm
- Bike owned: Ducati 900SS, 1978 Cafe 400/4
- Location: Trowbridge, Wilts
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
amorti wrote:I don't know about nc35's specifically but what you're looking at usually would mean either you put the spacers in the wrong sides (the RHS one is longer on other hondas using the same wheel) or the forks are bent.

- DoktorMandrake
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:37 pm
- Bike owned: NC35 & NC30 x3
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
Thanks for the replies. Spacers definitely in the right sides (as far as I know) as that was the first thing I checked.
Unfortunately I didn't check what it was like before I took it apart.
So you think it could be bent forks?
Unfortunately I didn't check what it was like before I took it apart.
So you think it could be bent forks?
- skinnydog0_0
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 pm
- Bike owned: Penny Farthing
- Location: Pembrokeshire West Wales
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
If you have replaced the headrace bearings, i would think that the bearings aren't seated fully and the top and bottom yolks are a little out of line.
I would try taking the forks out and checking that the bearings are in properly.
Are you riding the bike on the road or track? this will make a difference on how much fork you want to have through the top yolk.
I would try taking the forks out and checking that the bearings are in properly.
Are you riding the bike on the road or track? this will make a difference on how much fork you want to have through the top yolk.

An NC is for life, not just for Christmas!
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:13 pm
- Bike owned: RVF400
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
Sorry if obvious but check the wheel is the right way round as well as the spacers.
Don't know how I know this
Don't know how I know this

- skinnydog0_0
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 pm
- Bike owned: Penny Farthing
- Location: Pembrokeshire West Wales
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
jimirobinson0 wrote:Sorry if obvious but check the wheel is the right way round as well as the spacers.
Don't know how I know this

An NC is for life, not just for Christmas!
- DoktorMandrake
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:37 pm
- Bike owned: NC35 & NC30 x3
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
Jim - sadly not, wheel is on the correct way and spacers are too. First thing I checked.
Skinnydog - think you could be on the right track. It has a bit of weave too when you ride. Left to right. Every so slight. I thought the bearings may be too tight but they weren't. So perhaps the bearings are not in straight. I double checked both races in the headstock and the lower bearing went on the steering stem fine. However, perhaps I damaged the cage when fitting it or perhaps everything is not as straight as I think it is? Will have a check.
Oh and it's a road bike, mate. So what should I set the forks at?
Thanks for all ya help btw people!

Skinnydog - think you could be on the right track. It has a bit of weave too when you ride. Left to right. Every so slight. I thought the bearings may be too tight but they weren't. So perhaps the bearings are not in straight. I double checked both races in the headstock and the lower bearing went on the steering stem fine. However, perhaps I damaged the cage when fitting it or perhaps everything is not as straight as I think it is? Will have a check.
Oh and it's a road bike, mate. So what should I set the forks at?
Thanks for all ya help btw people!
- skinnydog0_0
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:07 pm
- Bike owned: Penny Farthing
- Location: Pembrokeshire West Wales
Re: NC35 - wheel spacer and fork protrusion help
I would just loosen everything first, forks and headstock then tighten them in order as per haynes to the correct torque.
Did you have the bike supported under the engine with an abba stand or foot peg stands so that the front end was free and loose?
For a road bike i would leave the forks flush (so the gold of the fork is level with the top yolk) i have a 5mm drop on my race bike, and you can notice it. But i have raised the rear too, so it has a front bias already. HRC race manual reckons 10mm, plus raise the rear, but i dont like that much on the front.
It all comes down to how you like the bike to feel. more fork through the top yolk, will make teh bike turn faster but you will loose stability and it will feel twitchy.
Just have an experiment, BUT ONLY CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME
Did you have the bike supported under the engine with an abba stand or foot peg stands so that the front end was free and loose?
For a road bike i would leave the forks flush (so the gold of the fork is level with the top yolk) i have a 5mm drop on my race bike, and you can notice it. But i have raised the rear too, so it has a front bias already. HRC race manual reckons 10mm, plus raise the rear, but i dont like that much on the front.
It all comes down to how you like the bike to feel. more fork through the top yolk, will make teh bike turn faster but you will loose stability and it will feel twitchy.
Just have an experiment, BUT ONLY CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME

An NC is for life, not just for Christmas!