Always starts on 2 cylinders

hannakournikova · Post by **hannakournikova** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:43 am

One on the nc30s always starts up on 2 lhs cylinders. Coils are connected and all ok. Once warms up then it runs better. Mmmmhhh strange....

MexicanGringo · Post by **MexicanGringo** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 2:50 pm

May be that the float heights are too low and those cylinders are flooding on start. Are you sure its running on 2 though? Mine only runs on 3 min...

Check the plugs after starting up, if the ones not firing are wet then theres too much fuel, or those plugs arent sparking properly.

Post by **viper_biker** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 11:33 am

I'd be going with a carb/fueling issue. Whip them out, give them a good clean and check them, balance them, whack them back in and I'd say that'll sort it out for you.

(either that or the plugs need replaced)

Post by **Lope** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 8:09 am

I've recently turned down my idle screw, (because I noticed when the bike was hot it was idling at about 2500 or more rpm; cold it was 1600)
I've set it so that when its warm it idles at about 1700.
(I prefer slightly higher idle than 1300, because then the battery can charge while you idle, makes batt last longer)
Turning down the idle has made starting much easier/quicker/more perfect. I just start with the choke and catch it with the throttle, then turn the choke off.
These bikes like a rich mix with small throttle openings to start.

Post by **thunderace** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 8:34 am

Lope wrote: (I prefer slightly higher idle than 1300, because then the battery can charge while you idle, makes batt last longer)

Sorry mate, that's an old wives tale. The battery will charge constantly as the engine is running regardless of rpm. All you are doing is wasting fuel.

samace · Post by **samace** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:28 am

I had similar problem on my nc35. Carbs need a good clean pay attention to the choke enrichment. Take the chokes oue and clead mine were furred up and green. Then get sme fine wire and clear the brass tubes cast into float bowl. Blow it through and feel the air come out.

regards

Steve

Post by **Lope** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:44 pm

thunderace wrote:
Lope wrote: (I prefer slightly higher idle than 1300, because then the battery can charge while you idle, makes batt last longer)
Sorry mate, that's an old wives tale. The battery will charge constantly as the engine is running regardless of rpm. All you are doing is wasting fuel.

I don't know where you get your information from but its wrong.
Permanent magnet alternators output voltage is entirely dependant on electrical load and speed; the voltage is clamped to a maximum of 14.4V by the regulator.
You can't make such sweeping statements like "battery will charge if the engine is running".
The alternator produces and the regulator burns a lot of power at 15,000RPM. If they make the alternator start producing 14.4v (with the bike's electrical load) at low RPMs that means at high RPM even more power will be burnt by the reg, and even more current will flow in the alternator wiring. You might have heard that alternators burn out sometimes.
Making the alternator cut in earlier either reduces reliability or increases costs.

Below 1800RPM you won't get a full 14.4V on the standard NC24 alternator.
You'll notice the headlight and the 'dashboard' lights are dim at about 1300, then brighter up until 1800, then the brightness remains constant above that.
At 1300RPM the voltage is below 13.5 which means there is no way the battery can charge, you need at least 2.25V per cell to charge a lead acid battery.
I've tested the output voltages at different speeds with a voltmeter.
My electronics skills are beast. Don't fuck around

Always starts on 2 cylinders

Always starts on 2 cylinders

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