nc35 shock removal - done

[911f]

Picked up a used Penske shock and began to swap it out tonite.

I searched but couldn't find great information on the shock removal process. My specific question was with stock exhaust can the shock be removed with exhaust in place. The Haynes manual seems to advise against it but they do describe the process. So I started into the project tonite with an open mind. I went fine and after about 75 minutes, going slowly and including figuring out a hoist, it was out. It was not even that much of a pain in the a55. My tips as you do it (and they probably won't mean much until you are trying to do it):

Follow the Haynes manual - its actually correct for this. My tips below are in addition to that. I removed the battery for another purpose and that helped quite a bit just open up the space and let me see better. If you have the need for another reason, probably removing the rear wheel would give even more access.

-I put the front wheel in a floor chock, but immobilizing it somehow would help as you should really hoist the bike. A lift would also work but hard to do with exhaust in place. I suppose zip tie the front brake would also immobilize the bike.
-I used a hoist with a strap around the frame where the shock mounts - having the rear lifted with zero weight on the wheel is important. I set it just touching the ground but no weight.
-Do take the pain in the butt job of loosening spring pre-load fully - it helps.
-Loosen the shock mounting top nut but don't remove fully until you are ready to remove the shock - helps keep the shock from dropping down on you while trying to remove the linkage bolts.
-Follow the manual for removing the 3 connections to the linkage joint - when it says remove a nut (but not also remove the bolt) do it that way: its for a reason and it works. It will later tell you to remove the nut to that part also. You can reach all the nuts and bolts though you may need a combination of 3/8 drive sockets, 1/2 inch drive and box wrenches. Some torque is necessary so bigger is better when it can fit.
-THe only bolt that is nearly a problem is the final one that holds the linkage joint to the swingarm. But they all will come out via the left side without a problem. If you elevate the rear wheel (while frame is hoisted) with exactly 3 2x4 boards laid flat and on top of each other, it will elevate the swing arm and you can then just get a needle nose plier in over the lower chain run between chain and undersurface of swingarm from the left side and easily remove the bolt. With the arm elevated that way it is simple to the remove the loosened top shock nut and the shock will literally drop right out from the right bottom in front of the wheel.

That was it. doing it again and having the hoist worked out I bet it could be a pretty quick deal. I can see no reason not to do it with the exhaust in place. This is with stock exhaust. If you can't see the 3 nuts to the linkage from the right side with your aftermarket pipe it may be a problem.

For those with aftermarket or who've done it, any benefit to adding ride height to the NC35? or downsides?
I measure 310 on the stock shock from eye to eye.

[Cammo]

Good work.

For those with aftermarket or who've done it, any benefit to adding ride height to the NC35? or downsides?
I measure 310 on the stock shock from eye to eye.

Definitely an advantage to have more rear ride height. HRC offered shims to stick on top of the stock shock bolt.

I think the optimum is about 5mm more (315mm shock eye-eye ).