Hi guys, my girlfriend purchased an rvf some time ago and the headstock bearings need changing. She complains that the bike leans too much on the side stand (it does) and is wondering if it is possible to change for a longer sidestand? Or is the bike too high and needs to be slightly lowered?
Headstock :
Need some help on this. I purchased the tapered bearings and just wondernig if there is anything else I need before i start the job? ie seals? And what type of grease do i use to coat the bearings in? I read that its not wise to use copper grease?
Anything I need to know or look out for before I start?
Sidestand :
Does the RVF generally lean so much or has the bike been raised in the past? Both girlfriend and I feel that the bike is going to "drop" before the sidestand touches the ground. Is this a problem for people and is there another sidestand that I can change for to give it a slightly less lean?
Thanks
RVF help for girlfriend - headstock and sidestand
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Re: RVF help for girlfriend - headstock and sidestand
Headstock...
You'll need some ally drifts to knock the races out. There is a cut away bit in the headstock if it's the same as that on my VFR which exposes part of the race so you just hit each side until the race pops out. Knock ya top and bottom races out. Can use a heat gun on the outside of the headstock if you like - just make sure you head the headstock not the races.
You'll need a vice to hold the bottom yoke once dismantled and a drift to gently knock the bearing off (hit on opposite sides - I generally end up obliterating the old bearing and just having to knock the inner race off). I just give it a good tap eitehr side, being careful not to mark the steering stem esp the lower part where the new bearing will sit. Note where the seal is (beneath the bearing) and which way the bearing fits (I have known people put the bearings on the wrong way round)
Put both outer races (the cups that sit in the headstock) in the freezer for as long as poss along with the bottom yoke/steering stem once you have the bearings off as the cold contracts the metal and makes fitting easier.
Get a head gun to heat the headstock up, retreive your bearings from the freezer and knock them in. I use a socket to make sure they are in squarely but you can use a bearing puller. Basically you want something that rests on the upper outer edges of the races. You do not want to mark where the bearings themselves sit or you could cause premature failure.
You will need two seals. An upper and lower. One sits at the very bottom of the steering stem and then has the bearing on top and the other you just pop in place under the adjuster/lock nut before replacing the tok yoke.
Apply a generous amount of multi-purpose grease (I just use the Halfrauds variety) to each of the bearings before you put everything back together. Spin the bearings to make sure the grease has penetrated.
When putting the bearings on the steering stem, replace the seal first and then you need a piece of pipe to drift the bearing into place. I generally use a bit of old scaffold cut to size but it needs to only touch the inner race of the bearing (not the bit that spins and is holding the rollers) so I use a washer that I put on before the pipe so as to make sure the hit is concentrated on the inner race. Knock the bearing on square and all the way to the bottom so that it sits on top of the seal.
Stand...
No idea. Lowering the bike won't alter how low the stand is. You will only alter the ride height and you don't want to do that unless you know what you are doing as you could make it handle like a bag of old shite. Someone may have altered the stand at some point. Personally I like a lot of lean on a stand. There's an RSV at work where the stand is way to short and it constantly feels like it's going to topple. It's basically precariously propped upright.
You'll need some ally drifts to knock the races out. There is a cut away bit in the headstock if it's the same as that on my VFR which exposes part of the race so you just hit each side until the race pops out. Knock ya top and bottom races out. Can use a heat gun on the outside of the headstock if you like - just make sure you head the headstock not the races.
You'll need a vice to hold the bottom yoke once dismantled and a drift to gently knock the bearing off (hit on opposite sides - I generally end up obliterating the old bearing and just having to knock the inner race off). I just give it a good tap eitehr side, being careful not to mark the steering stem esp the lower part where the new bearing will sit. Note where the seal is (beneath the bearing) and which way the bearing fits (I have known people put the bearings on the wrong way round)
Put both outer races (the cups that sit in the headstock) in the freezer for as long as poss along with the bottom yoke/steering stem once you have the bearings off as the cold contracts the metal and makes fitting easier.
Get a head gun to heat the headstock up, retreive your bearings from the freezer and knock them in. I use a socket to make sure they are in squarely but you can use a bearing puller. Basically you want something that rests on the upper outer edges of the races. You do not want to mark where the bearings themselves sit or you could cause premature failure.
You will need two seals. An upper and lower. One sits at the very bottom of the steering stem and then has the bearing on top and the other you just pop in place under the adjuster/lock nut before replacing the tok yoke.
Apply a generous amount of multi-purpose grease (I just use the Halfrauds variety) to each of the bearings before you put everything back together. Spin the bearings to make sure the grease has penetrated.
When putting the bearings on the steering stem, replace the seal first and then you need a piece of pipe to drift the bearing into place. I generally use a bit of old scaffold cut to size but it needs to only touch the inner race of the bearing (not the bit that spins and is holding the rollers) so I use a washer that I put on before the pipe so as to make sure the hit is concentrated on the inner race. Knock the bearing on square and all the way to the bottom so that it sits on top of the seal.
Stand...
No idea. Lowering the bike won't alter how low the stand is. You will only alter the ride height and you don't want to do that unless you know what you are doing as you could make it handle like a bag of old shite. Someone may have altered the stand at some point. Personally I like a lot of lean on a stand. There's an RSV at work where the stand is way to short and it constantly feels like it's going to topple. It's basically precariously propped upright.
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Re: RVF help for girlfriend - headstock and sidestand
ref the ride height - if it has a longer shock or a non std tyre or wheel then it will sit up pretty tall.
if you can have a look at the above and let us know...we'll sort something!
My VFR leans over a hell of a lot as I have the ride height up approx an inch...doesn't topple over though.
Finally, welcome to the site - stick about and get some pics of the lass' moto on
if you can have a look at the above and let us know...we'll sort something!
My VFR leans over a hell of a lot as I have the ride height up approx an inch...doesn't topple over though.
Finally, welcome to the site - stick about and get some pics of the lass' moto on

IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
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NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: RVF help for girlfriend - headstock and sidestand
HEADSTOCK YOUTUBE VIDS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRVhPmb ... rn false;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQHu3t-0 ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRVhPmb ... rn false;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQHu3t-0 ... re=related
the forum user formerly known as declangaelic