steve hislop rep?
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- simmo
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Re: steve hislop rep?
you need the gold wheels to get the full effect, and would prob go for rear numberboards, but leave the front as it is.
simmo #98 - JSRacing
http://www.js-racing.blogspot.com
Road ~ NC30
Race ~ ZXR400
http://www.rjssuperbike.co.ukhttp://www.bmcracing.co.ukhttp://www.ams-motorsport.co.ukhttp://www.vinylmarksigns.co.uk
- aaron0288
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Re: steve hislop rep?
The gold wheels look good on the racer, but picturing it on the NC30, it just doesn't look right. I'd keep with the white ones.
If there's one thing I've learned, it's that life is one crushing defeat after another, until you just wish Flanders was dead.
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Re: steve hislop rep?
personnally Id stick with white, but to be honest mate your the one riding it everyday so do what you like best.
+ white wheels will go with your stormtropper outfit.....lol
+ white wheels will go with your stormtropper outfit.....lol
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- Bike owned: NC30 Road, SV650 Race
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Re: steve hislop rep?
oi you havent seen it yet! (the suit)
o and i so need this lid ;
http://pbmagforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3351&hl=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
anyway my new sprocket studs turned up today, 2 1/2 weeks after ordering them, they are rc30 items so are pre drilled for lockwiring which should look cool and give the bike a bit of a 'racer' touch (+ they cost the same as standard ones) also on the way is an rs250 shock, nsr throttle and hopefully a nc23 front wheel with disks (still waiting on a price tho) this bikes become a bit of a bitsa now I think of it.
o and i so need this lid ;
http://pbmagforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3351&hl=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
anyway my new sprocket studs turned up today, 2 1/2 weeks after ordering them, they are rc30 items so are pre drilled for lockwiring which should look cool and give the bike a bit of a 'racer' touch (+ they cost the same as standard ones) also on the way is an rs250 shock, nsr throttle and hopefully a nc23 front wheel with disks (still waiting on a price tho) this bikes become a bit of a bitsa now I think of it.
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Re: steve hislop rep?
ok tail and nose pannels are back at painters for the week, so the bikes getting a strip down and a good clean up
having the front a rear number boards done in white, then decde whether i wan the number 11's later, (pritty sure i will tho)
iv taken the top yoke off and will be the first thing to get powder coated in our colleges new power coating machine so hopefully it works alright, if all goes well i might powder coat the fairing stay aswell as other black brackets that are on the bike
my lockwire tool arrived so iv been having a go, done rear sprocket and oil filler cap (r clipped that one so can be checked easily), once the fairing's come off il be using Gazzahh's filter locker thing and lockwiring that on
hopefully if my venhill pressure banjo comes in time il referb the hub, drill and foam fill the swingarm, route braided brake line through and fit my HRC RC45 rearsets (finally) in race pattern shift ofcourse (hrc would have wanted it that way lol) , aswell as sort the routing of my front brake lines
o il also be looking on what can go to save weight, first place i will start will be those pesky restrictor washer in the carbs
pictures and updates to follow
having the front a rear number boards done in white, then decde whether i wan the number 11's later, (pritty sure i will tho)
iv taken the top yoke off and will be the first thing to get powder coated in our colleges new power coating machine so hopefully it works alright, if all goes well i might powder coat the fairing stay aswell as other black brackets that are on the bike
my lockwire tool arrived so iv been having a go, done rear sprocket and oil filler cap (r clipped that one so can be checked easily), once the fairing's come off il be using Gazzahh's filter locker thing and lockwiring that on
hopefully if my venhill pressure banjo comes in time il referb the hub, drill and foam fill the swingarm, route braided brake line through and fit my HRC RC45 rearsets (finally) in race pattern shift ofcourse (hrc would have wanted it that way lol) , aswell as sort the routing of my front brake lines
o il also be looking on what can go to save weight, first place i will start will be those pesky restrictor washer in the carbs
pictures and updates to follow
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Re: steve hislop rep?
Day 1 - The Strip Down
ok all pannels, tank etc stripped off and gona go over everything with soem t-cut then polish and clean all nsides of fairing etc, got my new v-piece which i bought ages ago to fit as the old one was cracked (repaired, but prefer the mint new one)
checked rear plugs and they seem fine, if anything the mixture looked slightly rich but nothing to wory about, gap were spot of so recon they will be ok for a while (not sure on how many miles they've done, not too much by the look of them), what milege should plugs be changed after?
also here is a picture of my air filter, is it time to replace? certainly looks it to me, was thinking of replacing with HRC foam so it can just be cleaned up instead of being replaced every time, opinions?
took my carbon hugger off to give it a clean up and their are 2 chips in it, is their anyway of repairing carbon? also what would people recomend to clean it up, lightly abrasive polish to get its colour back (not that its discoloured alot)?
here are a couple of pic's of my lockwiring
also with my race bike head on iv been loking for a potential place to relocate the battery too but there isnt much space anywere, were have people moved them to?, also want to make an alloy overflow bottle for all engine breathers but not sure were to put it again
ok all pannels, tank etc stripped off and gona go over everything with soem t-cut then polish and clean all nsides of fairing etc, got my new v-piece which i bought ages ago to fit as the old one was cracked (repaired, but prefer the mint new one)
checked rear plugs and they seem fine, if anything the mixture looked slightly rich but nothing to wory about, gap were spot of so recon they will be ok for a while (not sure on how many miles they've done, not too much by the look of them), what milege should plugs be changed after?
also here is a picture of my air filter, is it time to replace? certainly looks it to me, was thinking of replacing with HRC foam so it can just be cleaned up instead of being replaced every time, opinions?
took my carbon hugger off to give it a clean up and their are 2 chips in it, is their anyway of repairing carbon? also what would people recomend to clean it up, lightly abrasive polish to get its colour back (not that its discoloured alot)?
here are a couple of pic's of my lockwiring
also with my race bike head on iv been loking for a potential place to relocate the battery too but there isnt much space anywere, were have people moved them to?, also want to make an alloy overflow bottle for all engine breathers but not sure were to put it again
- Cammo
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Re: steve hislop rep?
Good to see some progress spike!
It's easier to keep it in the stock location (what else would you put there?), but depending on the battery polarity orientation you still might need to extend the leads. Just get a size 4 battery if you want to shed some weight. The breather is best mounted up the back where theres some space, especially if you don't want to return the oil to the engine.
Not sure what your scrutineers are like there, they might pick your dipstick lockwiring as it can still come loose.
My rule is don't replace them unless they're stuffed. I once got 30k km's out of a set, they weren't affecting performance or starting so had no reason to change them.Spike16 wrote: checked rear plugs and they seem fine, if anything the mixture looked slightly rich but nothing to wory about, gap were spot of so recon they will be ok for a while (not sure on how many miles they've done, not too much by the look of them), what milege should plugs be changed after?
Sticks with standard. You'll need to get it on a dyno to suit the foam, and you'll lose some midrange while gaining squat.Spike16 wrote: was thinking of replacing with HRC foam so it can just be cleaned up instead of being replaced every time, opinions?
Spike16 wrote: also with my race bike head on iv been loking for a potential place to relocate the battery too but there isnt much space anywere, were have people moved them to?, also want to make an alloy overflow bottle for all engine breathers but not sure were to put it again
It's easier to keep it in the stock location (what else would you put there?), but depending on the battery polarity orientation you still might need to extend the leads. Just get a size 4 battery if you want to shed some weight. The breather is best mounted up the back where theres some space, especially if you don't want to return the oil to the engine.
Not sure what your scrutineers are like there, they might pick your dipstick lockwiring as it can still come loose.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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Re: steve hislop rep?
nah the r clip should be fine, simon ed has the same on his race bike aparently and never had a problem with scruit
the battery i was thinking about getting the weight as low as possible instead of actually losing weight, was thinging down the side of the engine like ducati's but not alot of space their, mabe under right side crash bung, il ponder on that one tho
o and good idea on having the overflow higher than the oil level, otherwise it would get sucked back in, hmm mabe overflow were standard battery location is...
slight update, cleaned up insides of all pannels and gona crack on with outsides tonight has anyone good any good idea's on what to polish the carbon with?
cheers
the battery i was thinking about getting the weight as low as possible instead of actually losing weight, was thinging down the side of the engine like ducati's but not alot of space their, mabe under right side crash bung, il ponder on that one tho
o and good idea on having the overflow higher than the oil level, otherwise it would get sucked back in, hmm mabe overflow were standard battery location is...
slight update, cleaned up insides of all pannels and gona crack on with outsides tonight has anyone good any good idea's on what to polish the carbon with?
cheers
- Cammo
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Re: steve hislop rep?
It doesn't matter about the height unless you plan to return the oil to the engine, no real need for short track racing unless the engine uses a lot of oil (single piston ring etc) and you want to save every last drop. Having it at the rear is more convenient for the exit.Spike16 wrote: o and good idea on having the overflow higher than the oil level, otherwise it would get sucked back in, hmm mabe overflow were standard battery location is...
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
- Cammo
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Re: steve hislop rep?
Yep the r-clip should be fine, just that your dipstick can come loose because of the length of lockwire!Spike16 wrote:nah the r clip should be fine, simon ed has the same on his race bike aparently and never had a problem with scruit
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks