NC30 Ignition issue Help required.

[Drunkn Munky]

Check the exhaust hasnt burnt the wires by the rhs rearset, causes odd electrical issues.

[Dynamohum]

Would check the ecu wiring plug is fully connected .
I had an issue whilst out a while back where bike developed a miss revcounter stopped lights flickering on and off was the ecu plug not properly connected must have stupidly disturbed it whilst removing tail unit pulled that connection instead of tail light plug .

[jb1000rr]

Hi thanks for the replies.

No heat damage to the loom around the rear set so can rule that out.

The ICU connectors have also been fully cleaned and checked and seem to be OK.

Carried out the continuity check with Ohm gauge set at 2K with the following readings:

Ign Off and Kill switch Off posn.

1. Ign Fuse Back to Tail Fuse Back = 0.00
2. Tail Fuse Front to Front Brake Black/Brown = 1.00
3. Tail Fuse Front to Front Brake Green/Yellow = 1.00

So I've got no continuity from the Fuse Box to the Front Brake switch.

I have carried out the following checks prior to the above, with the Ohm set at 2K, which may or may not be useful but here they are:

Ign On and Kill switch Run posn.

1. Rear Brake Switch Black/Brown to Front Brake Switch Black/Brown = 0.00
2. Front Brake Switch Black/Brown to Speedo connector Black/Brown = 0.00
3. Front Brake Switch Black/Brown to Tacho connector Black/Brown = 0.00
4. Rear Brake Switch Black/Brown to Speedo connector Black/Brown = 0.00
5. Rear Brake Switch Black/Brown to Tacho connector Black/Brown = 0.00
6. Turn Signal Relay Black/Brown to Front Brake Black/Brown = 0.00
7. Turn Signal Relay Black/Brown to Rear Brake Black/Brown = 0.00
8. Turn Signal Relay Black/Brown to Speedo connector Black/Brown =0.00
9. Turn Signal Relay Black/Brown to Tacho connector Black/Brown = 0.00

Unless I've got this wrong as I had the Ignition on and Kill switch to run, there is good continuity between all these points?
But, based on the switch positions and a fully charged battery > 12V, I don't know what the following readings would indicate?

10. Ign Fuse Back to Tail Fuse Back = -7.83
11. Ign Fuse Back to Front Brake Switch Black/Brown = -8.69
12. Ign Fuse Back to Rear Brake Black/Brown = -8.66
13. Ign Fuse Back to Speedo Black/Brown = -7.36
14. Ign Fuse Back to Tacho Black/Brown = -7.35
15. Ign Fuse Back to Turn Signal Relay Black/Brown = 1

The tests that Magg has given me shows a continity fault in the loom.
Do these other results narrow it down at all?

Regards

[magg]

My reading of the results for my test 2 and 3 is that the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse is no longer connected to the loom Blank/Brown wire. The results for your tests 1 thru 9 indicate that the TAIL/METER/HORN Black/Brown loom wire is ok. Test 10 thru 15 probably confirm the missing link between the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse and the Black/Brown loom wire, but as the results are dependent on unknown variables, they are virtually meaningless. As suggested in my earlier post, I would start at the fuse box to loom connector.

[jb1000rr]

So had a quick look on the loom for the fuse box connector but struggling to find it?

From the wiring diagram, I can see a white connector/plug clearly shown, linking the loom to the fuse box

Therefore, what type of connector is it, and how close or far from the fuse box should it be?

At the moment on the bike, all I can see from the fuse box is a thinner loom/set of wires covered by tape that then feeds into the main loom.

[magg]

Once again I have been embarressed by the haynes manual, should have consulted the factory version. A copy of the OEM service manual resides in the Document Library on this website.

Appears there are two loom configurations, one with a fuse box to loom connector and one without. Your's obviously is the configuration without. Unfortunately the only option is to remove the outer covering from the fuse box loom, establish that there is a connection from the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse contact to the Black/Brown wire as it leaves the fuse box and then work backwards into the main loom until you find the break.

[jb1000rr]

Its not my intention to catch anyone out, just trying to find the answers to my questions.

So here's another couple of questions before I start stripping looms.

1. With the ignition OFF and Kill switch to STOP, why should there be continuity between the IGN fuse back and TAIL fuse back? From my limited knowledge of wiring diagrams, both of these circuits go through switches which are open and therefore there should be no continuity?

2. Once again, with the same settings, why am I testing for continuity between the between the TAIL fuse front and the two front brake switch wires. Surely I should get readings that show no continuity between either of these two circuits as once again both of these circuits go through open switches?

[magg]

The intention of my continuity tests were:

1. to establish that the TAIL/HORN/METER fuse had at least one end connected to another fuse, the IGNITION fuse in this case, and thus to the power if and when the ignition switch was ON.

2. check for continuity from the TAIL/HORN/METER fuse to at least one device that is connected to the TAIL/HORN/METER fuse circuit, in this case the front brake switch. I requested both leads of the front brake stop switch be tested because the haynes manual claims there is a connector between the main loom and the switch and I was unsure whether the colour coding would be carried through from the loom to the switch wires.

In answer to your questions:

1. See my comment 1. above

2. One wire from the front brake switch should be connected to the TAIL/HORN/METER fuse as a power source, your results indicate there is no connection. Many other units should also have continuity as you found with your tests 1 thru 9. I picked the front brake switch as the easiest to reach.

Tests 10 thru 15 with IGN ON means you have extended the circuit to include the battery and ground system through the loom. this brings the tacho and speed limiter units into play. Would expect that these units now being in circuit will complicate the interpretation of your measurements.

[jb1000rr]

Continuing to track down this electrical issue by systematically checking each component.

I think I may have a faulty Reg/Rec as I'm not getting the readings in the manual.

Readings are as follows, with meter set on 20K Ohms & 1 = infinity:

+ to Red/White ; - to YLO 1( with these pin at the top left number 1, middle 2, right 3) = 1
; - to YLO 2 = 1
; - to YLO 3 = 1
; - to GRN = 1

+ to YLO 1 ; - to Red/White = 2.15
; - to YLO 2 = 1
; - to YLO 3 = 1
; - to GRN = 1

+ to YLO 2 ; - to Red/White = 2.14
; - to YLO 1 = 1
; - to YLO 3 = 1
; - to GRN = 1

+ to YLO 3 ; - to Red/White = 2.22
; - to YLO 1 = 1
; - to YLO 2 = 1
; - to GRN = 1

+ to GRN ; - to Red/White = 2.92
; - to YLO 1 = 2.18
; - to YLO 2 = 2.08
; - to YLO 3 = 2.19

Taking just one of my current faults, no neutral switch, where the neutral switch is serviceable, the neutral loom to the instruments has continuity, the loom to the clutch diode has continuity, all fuses are serviceable and the bulb is fully functioning.

Would a faulty Reg/Rec cause there to be no battery voltage to this system?

[magg]

If you do not have power to the lamp it will not light. Power comes via the black/Brown wire from the fuse box. I thought you had confirmed that there is a lose of continuity between the fuse box and the black/brown wire. If you set your multimeter to DCV and put one probe on the -ve battery terminal and the other on one of the black/brown wire connections, do you measure any voltage.

Unless you are conversant with using the diode function of a multimeter, I doubt you will make much sense of the measurements you have made on the rect/reg. If you are getting between 14V and 15V across the battery when the engine is running at 5000rpm then the charging system and the rect/reg are ok.