hot wires

Forum rules
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
sid1988
Settled in member
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:37 pm

hot wires

Post by sid1988 » Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:02 pm

hi . can anyone help ? i got a vfr400 nc24 i have found that the wires from the alternator to the rectifier are getting hot can anyone tell me why this is ? . i have noticed that someone has put a rectifier of off something els on the bike but no idea what . an from this rectifier there is a loan black wire that is not connected .

magg
Senior Member
Posts: 1916
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
Bike owned: VFR400
Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia

Re: hot wires

Post by magg » Wed Mar 13, 2013 8:29 am

Too hot to touch or just warm. Current through any wire generates heat and, as the alternator produces the most current in the electrical system, the alternator wires will get the warmest. Make sure all connections between the alternator and rect/reg are good otherwise the heat generated by bad connections will result in melted wires and terminal blocks.

If you get a minimum of 14 volts and a maximum of 15 volts across the battery with the engine running then the charging system is ok and I would not worry about the unused black wire. If you are getting more than 15 volts then I would replace the rect/reg or try connecting the black wire to the +ve battery terminal. I believe some types of rect/reg have single wire that is the reference signal from the battery, if the wire is left unconnected the regulator does not function and the battery will be over-charged.

Neosophist
Moderators
Moderators
Posts: 8172
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:01 pm
Bike owned: CBR954

Re: hot wires

Post by Neosophist » Wed Mar 13, 2013 10:52 am

Are the yellow wires crimped or soldered?

Are the connections clean?

Hot wires there are usually shitt connection.

Shitty connection = Higher resistance = more current = more heat = burnt out altenator and melted wire
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...

sid1988
Settled in member
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:37 pm

Re: hot wires

Post by sid1988 » Wed Mar 13, 2013 11:57 am

i had the bike running about 3 minutes when i noticed the wire where i would say nearly to hot to touch an the plastic coating was near melting ... i have pulled the seat an tank of to have a look found that it's a bit of hack job the wire are crimped as where i would of soldered them be less resistance an maintenance as them old crimp's get loss an corrode i find . i've checked the charge system when running getting about 12 an a half volt's to 13 an a half . so i'm going to strip the wire's back solder everything make sure it's all clean an see what the out come is hopefully it hasn't killed the rectifier or alternator . than's for you're help guy's i'll let you no the out come

Morespeedvicar
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
Posts: 837
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 1:37 am
Bike owned: Fzr400, NC30, CB50J, SS50Z KLR
Location: Grimsby

Re: hot wires

Post by Morespeedvicar » Wed Mar 13, 2013 3:13 pm

just make sure the reg/rec isnt shorted out, dodgey connections dont usually make a whole wire get that hot!
Cheers
Ian

sid1988
Settled in member
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:37 pm

Re: hot wires

Post by sid1988 » Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:35 pm

right here it is after 4 hour's of work stripping soldering so on an so on ... striped the wire's from rectifier to stator plate an found that the 3 wire's between ( rubber gromit on engine casing an plug ) where near melted to gather so isolated them by taping up each wire then removed 9 badly coroded crimps an soldered wire's the loan black wire turned out to be an earth that bolt's straight to the frame cleaned all plug's an put it back to gather . checked battery with voltmeter 12.5 volt's coming out of that on it's own so nothing wrong there . started bike at idle put voltmeter on an it read 15,1 volt's so rev'd the bike up to 5000rpm an it read 18.7 volt's and stay's at that right the way trough . so as far as i can tell it need's a new rectifier as the voltmeter should read about 13.5 volt's at idle an between an between 14.1 an 15.1 5000rpm an above ... thats with all the info i've got on the charging system which i hope is right

sid1988
Settled in member
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:37 pm

Re: hot wires

Post by sid1988 » Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:40 pm

o an by the way i ran the bike for an hour no hot wire's this time they got about as warm as the engine did which i would say was normal conduction of heat from running engine

Morespeedvicar
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
Posts: 837
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 1:37 am
Bike owned: Fzr400, NC30, CB50J, SS50Z KLR
Location: Grimsby

Re: hot wires

Post by Morespeedvicar » Wed Mar 13, 2013 7:41 pm

Yeah you deffo need a new reg/rec, volts usually sit about 13.7-14.7 shouldnt go above 15 really unless you've got a lipo bettery then it increases it a little bit.
Cheers
Ian

magg
Senior Member
Posts: 1916
Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
Bike owned: VFR400
Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia

Re: hot wires

Post by magg » Thu Mar 14, 2013 12:22 am

You could also try my earlier suggestion that the single black wire is the reference signal that should connect to the +ve battery terminal. If the black wire is the reference then no connection means no regulation.

There should already be a wire in the rect/reg terminal block that connects the chassis, otherwise there would be no output from the rect/reg.

sid1988
Settled in member
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:37 pm

Re: hot wires

Post by sid1988 » Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:31 am

i did try it on the battery both side just out of interest an the wire didn't seam to make a difference to anything

Post Reply