Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

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VFR400+
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Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by VFR400+ » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:43 pm

What a day Ive had with it,

Stripped the bike down to check the floats on the carbs and repaired the fuel tap with replacement diaphrams from NRP. As had fuel leaking in to the cylinders. Got that all back together and fired it up. Running on all cylinders sweet as you like.

Fitted the rest of the tyga kit and had to modify that abit due to the exhaust system but that was nothing major.

All assembled ready to go then I couldnt get any life out of the alarm or remote start, it was completely dead. Had to strip the rear end off and turned out that one of the connections had popped out and in turn touched the subframe and blown the fuse. So swapped that and got it going. Put it all back together again.

Rolled it out of the garden where I had been rebuilding it and kitted up ready to take it round the block to test it out before booking it in for an MOT tomorrow.By this time it was dark so all Kitted up fired it up and just about to go when realised the headlights werent working! :x

The parking/postion lights work, rear light works as do indicators but the headlights dont on dipped or main, the dash has the full beam light of constantly despite pushing the full beam button. So took the front end off, checked the connections and bulbs. One bulb looks shot but its been like that for a while and still worked. Took the rear off checked the fuse all present and correct. Press the full beam and you can hear the relay clicking. Took the sides off to check the connections from the switch gear, also took the switch gear apart but there was nothing obvious wrong there!!

So fustrating, was really hoping to get it on the road tomorrow!! Just seems like one thing after another at the moment.

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by magg » Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:10 am

Yours is a UK model with the low beam relay? If so, do you hear the low beam relay clicking when you turn on the lights? If you can hear the high beam relay operating but no lights suspect the relay is faulty, it may operate but the contacts do not close. Low beam may be same problem with relay, if there is one.

Do you have a multimeter and a copy of the wiring diagram? Unfortunately tracing electrical issues without either could be very frustrating.

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by VFR400+ » Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:21 am

No it's a Jap model, the only relay as far as I'm aware is for the fullbeams. Lucky I bought a multimeter last week so once I figure out how to use it I might stand a chance. The fact that the full beam light is always lit on the speedo makes me think it's switch gear or relay related.

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by magg » Fri Sep 16, 2011 4:24 am

You did not mention if you had a circuit diagram and I was not aware that the high beam indicator could be in the speedo, mine is in a separate panel along with oil pressure etc.

Since you believe the high beam relay is operating you could start there by setting your multimeter to 20VDC range and probing the blue wire coming from the high beam relay. You should see 12 volts when the headlight switch is set to high beam or the passing switch is pressed. Low beam 12 volt power should be on a white or white/blue wire from the handlebar switch block plug when low beam is selected.

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by VFR400+ » Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:15 am

I've got a koso speedo unit, got the wiring guide in the Haynes book. Will check over it at some point although got to do a clutch and cam belt on an Audi before Monday for a mate now. So the bike wil have to wait again! :(

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by Neosophist » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:37 pm

I've seen that main-beam light on constantly before but I can't remember what caused it.

Has your switch-gear melted? Unplug the light switch from the switch-gear where it meets the loom and see if your main-beam light disappears.

Could be it's shorting out in the switch... if not then some other part of the wiring loom isn't right. If it comes to me what caused the light to be on i'll post back.. will also check the wiring diagram later.
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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by VFR400+ » Fri Sep 16, 2011 7:59 pm

Thanks for the pearls of wisdom as always neo. Unplugged the switch gear and now light, so plugged it back in and unplugged the lead from the headlamp to main loom and it turned on and off as it should. So got the multimeter out and tested the wire to the lamp and turns out it wasn't well connected and had come away internally. So soldered it back together an hey presto it works!

So reassembled the body and now the left indicator doesn't work!!! Haf sprayed aload of Wd40 in the switch gear so wonder if that's causing an issue as when I arm the alarm they both flash. Got to laugh really!

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by VFR400+ » Sun Sep 18, 2011 1:16 pm

Just opened the switch gear up and cleaned a load of gunk out of it. Wiped the connectors of the indicator switch and went to reassemble but forgotten how it came apart! Relise that the lugs on the indicator stalk are meant to move the white block although they done seem to reach! confused! Anyway tried to move the block with a screwdiver just to test and it didnt seem to fix it. I get a clicking from the relay although when indicating left it seems to miss every other click.

ie Indicate Right - relay goes Click, Click, Click, Click
Indicate Left - relay goes Click,..........,Click,........

The bulbs are good as the indicates both flash with the alarm assume its the relay as the switch gear seems good.

Also if anyone has any pics of how the switch gear goes back together that would be great!!

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Re: Argh Bloody bike why wont you work!!!

Post by Cammo » Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:23 am

The nc30 switch gear is commonly problematic, the contacts wear out and the symptoms are exactly as you describe.

In my opinion it's pointless replacing it with another nc30 unit of the same age, get one from a newer bike and modify the wiring as needed. If you have the wiring diagrams of both bikes it's not difficult.
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