Story So Far, Nc 24

Firstly non starting, checked everything, battery good, but nay spark, finally I got all the plugs out the front right hand to get out was a bar steward, scuffed knuckes from the rad, (but thanks for all the tips from guys n gals on other posts),
3 out of 4 of the plugs where, gubbed, huge gaps of more than 1.1m, electrodes all but non existant, fitted new plugs, fired up first time, charging o.k.

Forks next, both seals shot, fitted new honda seals, fresh oil, brakes checked new fluid, working fine, after being smothered in fork oil and road gunk,

So the nobbish question is ... chain adjusting at the moment its resting on the swinging arm, being a single sided virgin, I assume that the chain must be tightened/adjusted by adjusting the back wheel on some sort of cam set up, please could some give the run down on what to do? and what sort of tension it should have?

There's a pinch bolt on the rear of the swingarm you need to slacken off. Then you need a C spanner to turn the adjuster cam. You should be able to see the cam by looking between the sprocket and the brake disc

Turn clockwise to tighten the chain btw.

Ahhh Cheers Thunder
I do not suppose you could highlight it in a photo or is it that obvious, and I take it
Clockwise is looking at the chain wheel side??

The C Spanner is for the NC30.

The NC24 doesnt have one as the adjustment is in the hub, the NC35 / 35 it is external.

There are two pinch bolts on the rear of the 24 swining arm, I think there 12 or 14mm, you cant miss them.

Slacken them off.

Look under the hub at the rear and in the middle youll see a disc with notches in it, turning this forward or backwards moves the hub / chain tightness.

It is easier if you have the rear wheel lifted off the ground as it is easier to turn



You can see the bolts at the rear... inbetween these two and slightly underneath you will see what I mean for adjuster

these suckers


Slackening the off the 2 bolts the bolt nearest the disc was dead stiff (even after plenty of penetrating oil) is this normal?
but at least its adjusted now, cheers guys

Thats the fellas.

And yes if it hasnt been adjusted in a while, the bolts go into aluminium, which with all water / shit that goes there will help it all corrode together.

Dont be tempted to use copper grease etc on there though as if they come loose the chain will tighten itself up as you ride.. I found that out before (not by using grease but not tightening the bolts enough) thankfully my bike has the toolkit in it so it was a frantic chain adjust at 3am in a dark b road.

I do use some medium strength threadlock on these bolts now (loctite stuff) this is the stuff that lets you undo the bolts easy but keeps them secure, it will also keep out any water / moisture and crap that will help corrode the bolts in

Neosophist wrote:The C Spanner is for the NC30.

The NC24 doesnt have one as the adjustment is in the hub, the NC35 / 35 it is external.

Not that I've looked that closely yet, but I've used a C spanner to adjust mine

The toolkit doesnt come with one, just a 'pokey stick' to adjust it with.

If you look at an NC30/35 hub you'll see that the adjuster is on the outside and it needs a C spanner as its castellated.

Heres a picture of one that somebody has used a screw-driver on you can see how two or 3 of the adjusters have been chisled off



And here is what the normal NC30 hub not chewed up looks like



and here is the spanner you need to adjust it without destroying it.



Fortuantly the NC24 hub is much easier to adjust and must more durable, just make sure the thing you stick in the hole is the right size

the adjusting holes at the back on mine have been mistreated which is about the best description I can think of,
ie been moved with something smaller than the holes, I basically went through my drill box to find a drill whose shank had the best fit and gently tapped it down and it adjusted fairly easily.

Yep! Wrong size stick for the hole probably, or even worse people hitting it with a screwdriver