My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

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angry_rob
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My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by angry_rob » Thu Feb 24, 2011 5:38 pm

Hey guys it's been a while since my bike was involved in an unfortunate accident and since then I decided to go all out and buy the Tyga Performance T9 body kit for my NC23 Tri-arm from Gavin at Jap4. First off I want to thank Gavin for a super quick delivery, great deal (400GB discount) and great service, top bloke.
:rocks:

Now on to the T9 kit, I have it fully fitted now (minus the HRC rear brake reservoir as I think it may not be MOT worthy, any one here know?) and here are my thoughts:

The quality of the GRP from Tyga is very good, very light and sturdy. The panels fit together very well and line up to the other panels almost as well as the original fairings. My favourite thing about the kit however is the look of it, I know a lot of you are more fond of the bike in its original form but I guess 'cause I'm one of these typical youths I have to modernise my 22 year old bike, it's just the type of styling I like.

Here are a couple of photo's:

Image

Image

As you can see it still needs to be painted, I'm thinking of having the whole bike white with a big blue Honda wing on the side like this:

Image

But obviously not in those colours. I'm open to ideas.

Now for the bad parts... I was surprised at how many problems I had along the way of fitting the T9 kit, after reading a lot about peoples experiences with Tyga products I thought it would be a doddle, how wrong I was.
Similarly to this thread, viewtopic.php?f=28&t=11704, I started with the front upper fairing and even after drilling out the clocks bracket 10mm, there is no way to fit the upper cowling without the lights hitting the clocks bracket without first modifying the bracket, in my case by modification I mean smacking it with a hammer and grinding useless parts off of it :?. Now I understand the bike is old and I do know it has been involved in at least 1 drop but even if it hadn't of been dropped, the bracket would still need modification regardless and I think Tyga should have been more clear on this.

Also I may add that at the very front of the bike where the fairing is bolted to the bracket (just below the screen) the small bracket Tyga give you to match the new fairing seen here:

Image

Does not come with a nut and bolt, which is needed as otherwise you can't actually screw the bolt in, in my case the hole in the front of the fairing didn't even line up the hole in the bracket any way (another niggle of mine) so I drilled my own hole and used a tap and die kit to add a thread to it, to allow me to easily screw in the bolt.

The air ducts on the NC23 are known to be pretty useless, but from my research and from looking at the frame the air ducts direct cooler air through the frame and I guess towards the air box, now Tyga's air ducts (referred to as 'consoles' in the fitting instructions) are fitted against the frame with some very poorly cut foam, in my opinion they should have just provided customers with a rectangular peace of foam for us to cut ourselves. Now I have brought this to attention simply because the foam needs hollowing out or it will just block off this airflow, this is something Tyga does not mention in their fitting instructions; it should be.

I will also mention that the air ducts I was provided with had the mounting holes drilled in the complete wrong place! Now I didn't want to send the air ducts back and wait for more and I didn't want to drill more holes in the air ducts as it wouldn't look any good, so I drilled new holes in the frame itself... what a pain just for some little air ducts.

Next I fitted the front mud guard, easy peasy apart from one of the threads in the mud guard needed re-tapping as non of the bolts would thread through it, even though they went smoothly through all the others.

Now the lower fairing, once the upper fairing was in the correct place this was easy to install, with only a couple of minor niggles from me, these being: the fairing sits too close to the exhaust and needs to be spaced out a couple of centimetres, I don't know why they didn't just mould the fairing to keep a good distance from the exhaust in the first place, but this isn't really a problem.

Next is the way in which the lower fairing is held on the left side of the bike near to the back, you can see how it's mounted here:

Image

Why Tyga decided to mount it this way I'm not sure as the side stand has a bracket right there that the fairing could of been bolted to, but because of the shape of the fairing you have to use their bracket to fit the fairings nicely and as you can imagine the side stands' little bracket gets in the way!

The rear under tray/fender from Tyga fits nicely in place as does the rear fairing although from time to time the fairing pops out of where it fits into the tank.

The rear light supplied by Tyga was wired the wrong way round, the break light and normal rear light were back to front, so you couldn't actually tell if the bike was breaking, because the brighter bulb was already on, I don't know how they managed that, and I hope that isn't standard with the rear lights as some people might not notice, hence it could be dangerous for other road users and the biker. As well as that was the number plate bracket, well it's impossible to fit a legal UK plate so the bottom needs to be chopped off not a big deal really but it just seems something simple that could have easily been better.

Now the last bad part, honest! Due to the new under tray and rear fairing the fitting instructions say to fit CDI on the battery box, sounds easy... but Tyga completely forget to tell you that if you move the CDI there, you will have to have some spare wires etc. around if you still want a rear light and indicators! Because the wires need to be split so that the correct wires need to go to the back for the lights etc and the CDI needs its wires, now the problem comes from the earth's for these wires, they all join together at one point, they need to be split from where they join to the earth so that they can reach what they need to earth, this means that the rear light and indicators or CDI will need to have a new wire that leads to the earth.

I am slightly disappointed as I guess I over-hyped Tyga in my mind and expected the fitting to be straight forward but don't let this seem like I'm trying to give Tyga a bad name, after all I am happy with the result even though from reading the bad seems to outweigh the good.

I apologise for the vast amount of text and if you read all of this then I feel sorry for you, as I can hardly describe my type up as exciting. :whistle: Any questions or if you want more pictures then don't be afraid to ask.

Thanks for reading! :peace:

lizard821000
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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by lizard821000 » Thu Feb 24, 2011 6:23 pm

cool story bro :peace:

amorti
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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by amorti » Thu Feb 24, 2011 7:38 pm

Good write-up :)

In fairness, your bike has got aftermarket downpipes, so it could be that clearance isn't an issue with original parts?

Or it could be that it fits fine on the nc29, and just knock up a few more brackets... presto, bespoke nc23 fairings ;)

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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by atkins2010 » Thu Feb 24, 2011 9:46 pm

hello rob
i want to get tyga fairings for my nc 29 (when i get some spare £) , i hope its not as much greif as yours , i might just get someone to fit them for me i dont think i could be that patient !! they do look quality thouh when you gonna get them painted ?
dave

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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by tygapaul » Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:37 am

Thanks for the comments on the NC23 kit. It is always good to hear feedback good or bad and we will do our best to improve things. Let's go through one by one:

Glad you like the fit and finish of the panels. It takes quite a lot of work to get the panels to fit well so thanks for the positive feedback on that.

Now on to the not so good parts.

The first thing is, I wuldn't say we were experts on the NC23 and there will be members who know a lot more than us so if you can help us that would be great. I did own a pristine 1988 model 20 years ago when I first came to Thailand but I didn't even take the fairings off in those days so I learned very little then. Our project bike came to us in a terrible state but was the best we could finf. All of us are up against it because we are all dealing with a 20 year old bike. There were non stock parts all over ours and evidence of crash damage and we did our best to get it somewhere to the stock starting form we believe was correct which is essential in order design the parts and to make the customer's job easy for fitting. In some aspects I think we may have fell short but to be fair to us, unless your bike is 100 stock and uncrashed then chances are some things won't line up with yours either.

Anyway, instrument bracket. Ours fitted but had been damaged and repaired at some point. It is tight squeeze and slotting spacing or adjusting the mounting holes to get good clearance may be required. If anyone can give us the definitive spec, I'd be happy to put this in the fitting instructions. However, the parts we are talking about here are not supplied with the kit and the fairing and headlight position and handlebars on full lock dictate that the instruments need to be in this position so without a complete redesign and moving the whole upper forward (and spoiling the design in the process) I would say drilling the holes where the instrments mount to the stay is a pain but the best solution.

If the hole in the front of the fairing did not line up then that suggests that the fairing is incorrectly positioned in relation to the meter stay which the instruments are attached to in turn which would explain some of the above. In this case, I would recommend loosening off the meter stay where it mounts on the frame and keeping the rest of the fairing loose until you can locate the upper in the hole position for the stay. Any other position and you will get some sort of clearance issue such as the one with the instruments. I have not heard fo this problem so I am assuming for now this postion is ok unless other people say the same as you.

Nut and bolt missing, our bad. Will take it up with packers. What with the stock parts coming off and our mounting hardware I would hope there is an M6 bolt you could use but I agree it should be supplied as that was in the spec.

Air ducts, you have a point here. I have checked some old frames and it turns out that the 1988 and 1989 versions are different. Ours doesnt use the air ducts for induction, they are just cosmetic. The other year does use them so I should mention this on the website. Also, good old Honda put the holes in a slightly different place so our holes work for one year but not the other. Fibre is easy to fill so I would have recommended redrilling the fibre not the frame. On going we will supply two templates and let the customer drill. For anyone reading this, it is easy to make a template. Just place a piece of paper over the airea and if you have grubby hands like me just rub on the edges and holes and the dirt will give you a 'brass rubbing' affect and you can drill to these specs. A pencil will work for those of you who have clean hands ;)

On the exhaust clearance, on a stock system this should not be a problem. Anything else is the customer's responsibility to fit but we will be happy to offer advise. I am not clear on the side stand bracket issue. Our bike had no problem here.

On the wiring, ours was fine and we didn't need to split anything. Could be our loom was non stock but I don't think so. Maybe someone has put too much insulation tape round the loom on your bike. My recommendation is unravel the loom in that area and you will be able to get the lengths you need without any extra wire (unless good old Honda changed the loom on the different years here too) If so sorry, but we only had the one bike to use for our reference.

On the tail light, this is an interesting point. On NSR250s they switched the wires over in 1990. On our kits we supply two identical lights except the wiring position of two wires depending on the year. Could it be Honda did the same on the CBR400RR? If so, please give us the the colours or photos so we can see the issues.

What we can then do it put some additional instructions on the website to explain any differences between the two models or ask the customer to confirm the year at the time of purchase. We will do our best to make the fitment of the kit as fun and satisfying as possible There are always frustrations, and frankly speaking mistakes, but we will do our best to provide you with the best kits out there and take on board all comments so we can improve our products.

amorti
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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by amorti » Fri Feb 25, 2011 8:44 am

I like it - constructive criticism, constructive honest response.
:rocks:

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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by angry_rob » Fri Feb 25, 2011 4:26 pm

tygapaul wrote:Thanks for the comments on the NC23 kit. It is always good to hear feedback good or bad and we will do our best to improve things.
Hi Paul it's nice to hear back from some one at Tyga, I'm confident that you are very good at listening to your customers and it's good to get feedback going both ways.
tygapaul wrote: If the hole in the front of the fairing did not line up then that suggests that the fairing is incorrectly positioned in relation to the meter stay which the instruments are attached to in turn which would explain some of the above. In this case, I would recommend loosening off the meter stay where it mounts on the frame and keeping the rest of the fairing loose until you can locate the upper in the hole position for the stay.
When fitting the upper fairing I had the meter stay/bracket loose to allow some leeway, the problem was that if I lined up the whole in the bracket with the hole in the fairing the air ducts would come under stress from where they were mounted and it also caused the lower fairing problems fitting around the engine casing, so it was necessary to mount the upper fairing at the front where I did. I would say maybe you should not drill the hole at the front and allow customers to do this themselves, this way the customer will have much more freedom when fitting the upper fairing as they can position the hole where it suits their bike and brackets best.
tygapaul wrote: Nut and bolt missing, our bad. Will take it up with packers. What with the stock parts coming off and our mounting hardware I would hope there is an M6 bolt you could use but I agree it should be supplied as that was in the spec.
I don't know if I misunderstood or misread the parts list, but Tyga don't actually supply a nut at all (again did I misread the parts list?), to go with the M6 bolt, the photo I showed in my previous post shows the bracket a washer and a spacer, but no nut, so I don't think this is the packers fault, but that someone forgot that a nut is needed for that particular bracket. But then again if you do fit this using a nut and bolt, how are you supposed to get your hand past the clocks in order to get the nut on the bolt?

tygapaul wrote: Air ducts, you have a point here. I have checked some old frames and it turns out that the 1988 and 1989 versions are different. Ours doesnt use the air ducts for induction, they are just cosmetic. The other year does use them so I should mention this on the website. Also, good old Honda put the holes in a slightly different place so our holes work for one year but not the other.
Thanks for explanation, I'm sure this will help future customers. :smile:
tygapaul wrote: On the exhaust clearance, on a stock system this should not be a problem. Anything else is the customer's responsibility to fit but we will be happy to offer advise. I am not clear on the side stand bracket issue. Our bike had no problem here.
On the exhaust clearance it is actually mentioned in the instructions that this may need doing, I just thought that maybe if the fairing was moulded differently in the first place then this wouldn't have been necessary. My exhaust is just a stainless steel replica of the original, as far as I'm aware it's the same diameter etc. For the exhaust I think maybe Tyga could supply something else with the bracket so that customers that need more clearance can get it without needing anything that's not included in the kit?

Here is an image of the side stand bracket I was talking about:

Image

The bracket is only a couple of mm from the bracket Tyga supplies, is this a difference with the RRJ and RRK models? Or maybe yours was missing because of the state of your project bike? Also just to note the sidestand bracket isn't held on by the bolt seen in the photo, it is actually welded onto the sidestand itself, so you would have to grind it off.

tygapaul wrote: On the wiring, ours was fine and we didn't need to split anything. Could be our loom was non stock but I don't think so. Maybe someone has put too much insulation tape round the loom on your bike. My recommendation is unravel the loom in that area and you will be able to get the lengths you need without any extra wire (unless good old Honda changed the loom on the different years here too) If so sorry, but we only had the one bike to use for our reference.
I think Honda may have changed the looms. Here are some photo's of my loom, as you can see I did split it.

Image

In the image below you can see a grey wire this is a wire I used myself to ground the rear light/indictors and you can see one of the original earths.

Image

The next photo shows a bullet connector I put in where the earths used to join in the loom. That is the reason why the grey wire is there, because the earth for the rear lights/indicators didn't reach, so it needed to be extended.

Image

So Honda may have changed the loom for the J and K models or possibly my or Tyga bike's loom isn't original. I'm not sure on this though.
tygapaul wrote: On the tail light, this is an interesting point. On NSR250s they switched the wires over in 1990. On our kits we supply two identical lights except the wiring position of two wires depending on the year. Could it be Honda did the same on the CBR400RR? If so, please give us the the colours or photos so we can see the issues.
The two wires between my fingers needed to be swapped over, hence the two bullet connectors below switching the wires round. Again could be Honda related, or maybe some one messed up with this particular rear light?

Image
tygapaul wrote: What we can then do it put some additional instructions on the website to explain any differences between the two models or ask the customer to confirm the year at the time of purchase. We will do our best to make the fitment of the kit as fun and satisfying as possible There are always frustrations, and frankly speaking mistakes, but we will do our best to provide you with the best kits out there and take on board all comments so we can improve our products.
I think that the instructions should definitely be updated to suit certain models and thanks for taking the time to listen to a customer. ;)
atkins2010 wrote:hello rob
i want to get tyga fairings for my nc 29 (when i get some spare £) , i hope its not as much greif as yours , i might just get someone to fit them for me i dont think i could be that patient !! they do look quality thouh when you gonna get them painted ?
dave
I have seen other members who bought the kit for the NC29 and didn't mention any problems at all, I would try the search function for the NC29 tyga kit and see what comes up. I wouldn't let this put you off the Tyga as the kits for each bike are completely different anyway, even with the issues I had, I would say it's well worth it.

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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by CRM » Fri Feb 25, 2011 5:39 pm

amorti wrote:I like it - constructive criticism, constructive honest response.
:rocks:
:plus: It's great that someone takes the time to do a detailed review, listing all the pro's and con's and difficulties and even admitting the odd oversight.
Equally so that the manufacturer takes the time to respond.

Everyone's a winner. top marks guys. thanks.
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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by tygapaul » Tue Mar 22, 2011 3:29 am

Can we get some feedback on the differences in the wiring between the 1989 and the 1988 models or any differences so I can update the fititng instructions etc. We are not drilling the front hole on the upper on future kits just in case the position is not bang on in every case. If anybody has a rear left lower stay near the side stand, we may modify the kit to make this area simpler, though if you remove the stock stay and fit ours, it should all fit tick-adee-boo!

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Re: My Experiance With the Tyga Performance T9 Body Kit

Post by Gavin jap4 » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:41 pm

good to hear all this feedback guys. If you get your kits from me please feel free to call me anytime about any problems you are having as I am here to help to make sure all problems are solved and feedback is passed onto to Paul at TYGA.

Rob dont forget to send me pics of the bike when its finished as looking forward to seeing the finished product.

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