Lockwire , how do i do it

[porndoguk]

I Just use nyloc nuts on my sprocket bolts, they are M8 stand pitch thread, only £6ish for 100 at screwfix in stainless

http://www.screwfix.com/p/nylon-lock-nu ... -100/19680

throwaway each time you use, those nuts will never undo on the wheel again i had the r pin on my bike and ditched it for the split pin as i felt safer, as 90sman says why lock wire something that is designed to be quick release to save time etc,

i have a feeling this is all for the "LOOK"

[Trinirides]

Racing regs ask for certain bits to be lock wired, sump bolt etc most racers lock wire Cailper bolts for good measure.. Check out Hyperbolt or Probolt for pre drilled bits....

[arsey30]

Hi mate,

I'd have to answer your question with another question. Why are you wirelocking a locking device?

If your concerned with the R clip falling off, use a split pin. there's no need to lock a locking device.

I haven't looked at the way the sprockets are held on, I'll need to have a look at mine when I get home tonight. However I thought the nuts were nyloc nuts, if they're not then the nuts can be wirelocked to each other. I can't remember off hand how the bolts are held, if they're loose fit then the heads would need locking also.

You don't generally lock the ends of the studs, it's ineffective. I'll have a look when I get home later. To see the best way of doing it, why do you need it? Racing regs? Or just to look nice?

The sprocket bolts come wired that way from the factory, as does the hub nut, so I left it that way.
The bolts are locked in position and self locking aeronuts are used.

I use split pins rather than R clips for security, except when the item is to be removed occasionally.
I wired it as that how it was done on a race bike I prepared.
I used drilled nuts and bolts as below on the race bike.

[/img]

[porndoguk]

Hi mate,

I'd have to answer your question with another question. Why are you wirelocking a locking device?

If your concerned with the R clip falling off, use a split pin. there's no need to lock a locking device.

I haven't looked at the way the sprockets are held on, I'll need to have a look at mine when I get home tonight. However I thought the nuts were nyloc nuts, if they're not then the nuts can be wirelocked to each other. I can't remember off hand how the bolts are held, if they're loose fit then the heads would need locking also.

You don't generally lock the ends of the studs, it's ineffective. I'll have a look when I get home later. To see the best way of doing it, why do you need it? Racing regs? Or just to look nice?

The sprocket bolts come wired that way from the factory, as does the hub nut, so I left it that way.
The bolts are locked in position and self locking aeronuts are used.

I use split pins rather than R clips for security, except when the item is to be removed occasionally.
I wired it as that how it was done on a race bike I prepared.
I used drilled nuts and bolts as below on the race bike.

[/img]

Dave are these the pics of RC30?

where do you get that hub nut?

[arsey30]

Yes, the hub nut is standard RC30, but the NC's are staked with a punch anyway.

The 2 smaller nuts are titanium sprocket nuts.

Dave.

[80sman]

The hub nut's good... I've done mine the same.

The sprocket bolts on mine also have the holes through, looking at other fasteners that honda use, it looks like you can put either a split pin or locking wire through those holes to stop the nuts coming off once they've already come loose.

Your titanium pre-drilled nuts would be a far better solution, just wire-lock those ones up in pairs and it would be nice and neat. You wouldn't have any need then for the other bit of wire running between the studs. Looks to me that in standard form honda have opted for a low cost solution, bet they're race bikes aren't done that way.

Nyloc or other self locking nuts would be ok on the rear sprocket.

Regarding the R-clip....... I don't know...... It looks bad with it wire locked, I would use a split if I was worried, or if it comes out regularly use the R-clip without the wirelocking.

However having a browse around to find out more about locking R-clips I found this site http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_se ... index.html

According to that site you've done it the best way....... so I'll just keep quiet and sit in the corner, haha although if any of my guy's had done the wirelocking on that site I'd get them to cut it and re-do. Some of it's ineffective and some of it looks like it's anti-wirelocked.

Go figure!

[arsey30]

The hub nut's good...

Your titanium pre-drilled nuts would be a far better solution, just wire-lock those ones up in pairs and it would be nice and neat. You wouldn't have any need then for the other bit of wire running between the studs. Looks to me that in standard form honda have opted for a low cost solution, bet they're race bikes aren't done that way.

The RC30 WAS built for Superbike and World Endurance racing, but I wire locked the nuts together and used drilled bolt heads for lockwiring on the race bike I worked on.

There is still the same length of wire running between the pairs of studs, even if the nuts are wired together.

[80sman]

The hub nut's good...

Your titanium pre-drilled nuts would be a far better solution, just wire-lock those ones up in pairs and it would be nice and neat. You wouldn't have any need then for the other bit of wire running between the studs. Looks to me that in standard form honda have opted for a low cost solution, bet they're race bikes aren't done that way.

The RC30 WAS built for Superbike and World Endurance racing, but I wire locked the nuts together and used drilled bolt heads for lockwiring on the race bike I worked on.

There is still the same length of wire running between the pairs of studs, even if the nuts are wired together.

Yeah, I know the RC30 was built for racing, I was on about their works bikes.

The length of wire isn't an issue, it's just that locking the nuts stops them coming undone. Locking the stud's does not.

[arsey30]

Agreed, the factory endurance bikes even had left hand threaded rear axles.