NC30 Ignition issue Help required.

[jb1000rr]

Hi,

Getting the bike out of winter storage. Went to start it for the first time and found the following:
1. Switched Ignition on - No oil light, No Neutral light.
2. With Ignition still on - No Horn, No side lights, No indicators working, No indicator light on dash.
3. With Ignition still on - Main Beam worked using passing switch, Main Beam Light on dash came on, Headlight worked using switch but not sidelights. Starter worked but engine did not fire.

Has anyone had this fault before? And if so can you point me to a specific area to look at?

Thanks and await your replies.

[magg]

With exception of the non-start, the list of issues is consistent with failed indicator and fan/tail/horn fuses. If the engine cranks then power should be available for the ignition system.

If fuses are intact then it becomes a bad connection problem for the electrical issues that would need a multimeter to track down. I suggest you check for ignition spark with the plugs removed and fuel on the plugs. If you have spark and no fuel then carbies and fuel flow to them would be the next stop, fuel tap vacuum hose perhaps.

[jb1000rr]

Ok, here's the latest.

Checked all the fuses which are OK.
Checked the neutral switch, OK.
Checked the wire loom from neutral switch to the instruments, OK
Checked all the Speedo loom wires, OK
Checked bulbs, found 3 broken bulbs which were all replaced.
Checked and cleaned the left hand switch gear and continuity, OK.
Checked battery, good voltage output, cleaned terminals and the bikes earth point on the frame just in case, All Ok.

Tried the ignition once again. Still nothing. No Oil light, No neutral light. So switched it off.
Checked the oil, just to be on the safe side, checked the gear shift for neutral and spun the rear wheel. Then switched the fuel to on, added some choke, then tried to start the bike.
It started first time, no problem. Switched the fuel to off and left it to idle while it cleared the fuel from the lines and the engine ran with no issues until it ran dry.

However, still no neutral light, and now found an additional issue to all the others. The rev counter doesn't work!

Anyone any ideas before I continue to track down this annoying electrical problem?

[magg]

No start can be crossed of the list. While checking the fuses, did you remove them? All your electrical issues (including no indicators) are related to Indicator Fuse. Have you removed, reinserted it to clean the contacts? Use your multimeter to confirm power is available both sides of the fuse and then check at the various units that are not functioning.

Why did you run the engine dry?

[jb1000rr]

Hi,

yes, I removed each of the fuses and checked them seperately off the bike. All Ok.

I run the bike dry normally before I store it, having learnt the hard way. In the past I put the bike into storage with the fuel tap left off. When I came to bringing it out of storage, I found that the engine sump was full of fuel and oil. The fuel in the tank had continued trickling past the shut off valve and one of the floats in the carbs had stuck open, flooding the engine and emptying the tank. It gave me an excuse to strip the bike and rebuild it, replacing all the tired components such as the fuel cock and I had a clean engine afterwards as well! So now, I make sure that I run the bike dry, just to be on the safe side.

Anyway back to my current electrical issue. I'm guessing this has to be a short somewhere. Having looked at the wiring diagram, I have another question as I am no great electrician. I have taken the LH switchgear off the bike and given it a good clean and tested it for continuity and it all seems OK. From using the switch with both engine on and off, I still have no horn and Indicators. The Rev/Tacho still isn't working. The neutral light and Oil pressure light still don't light. The bike has not got the standard temp guage fitted as I have an HRC Temp gauge. I know some of these Temp gauge wires are not connected but these have all been isolated and it wasn't a problem before.

So my question, Are all the symptoms that I have mentioned above interlinked in some way on the same circuit? For example, from the wiring diagram, it appears that the brown and black wire links the Tacho, Oil pressure bulb and Turn signal relay. Is there another component in the electrical system that could be causing this short because its wires are linked?

All help gratefully received as the search goes on.

[magg]

Can understand why you would run it dry before storage, but your first post said you were getting your bike out of storage.

With the electrical issue, perhaps my comments have been unclear. As you have discovered, the common link is power from the INDICATOR fuse, it feeds all the circuits with which there appears to be an issue. Is there power on both sides of this fuse. If yes then there is an OPEN circuit in the loom from this fuse to the units that are not functioning. I would suggest that you check power to these units to confirm power or then check continuity from the fuse to the inoperative units. The loom will most likely daisy chain the power to each unit, so should only have to unravel a small section to find a common point.

[jb1000rr]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

After the engine flooding, whenever, I start the bike these days, I always leave the engine on and stop it by turning the fuel cock to off. It helps me if I ever need to remove the tank, stops fuel remaining in the carbs and I don't have to think whether I've done it or not. It's become a precautionary measure and one that doesn't cause any problems only benefits of not have to strip carbs down.

Right back to the circuit issues. I did check across the Ignition fuse box terminals, however, I may have missed something obvious having quickly read both the Honda Service and Haynes Manuals. Therefore, can you please explain in simply terms what steps, (A: Remove Ignition Fuse, B: connect battery terminals C: etc etc.), I need to follow to carry out this test properly.
Thanks.

[magg]

Given your bad experience with stuck float needle I now understand why you would run the engine dry.

Your list of non functioning devices share the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse as their power source. Earlier I called it the INDICATOR fuse, my mistake for believing the Haynes manual. Fuse identification should be as per the markings inside the fuse box lid.

All tests are with ignition OFF and engine RUN/STOP switch in the STOP position, unless stated otherwise.

1. Remove the TAIL/METER/HORN and IGN/STA fuses. With your multi-meter on ohms setting, place one multi-meter probe on the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse contact in the fuse box, furthest away from the SPARE fuse. Place second multi-meter probe on the IGN/STA fuse contact in the fuse box, furthest away from the SPARE fuse. There should be continuity, <2 ohms.

2. No continuity then there is a fuse box issue.

3. If there is continuity, then place one probe of the multi-meter on the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse contact in the fuse box, closest to the SPARE fuse.

4. At the front brake master cylinder unplug the two wires that connect to the brake light switch.

6. Place the second multi-meter probe on each of the front brake switch wires, in turn. At least one contact should have continuity with the TAIL/METER/HORN fuse contact.

7. No continuity means a loom fault. There is a connector from the fuse box to the main chassis loom. That would be the place to start.

[jb1000rr]

Thanks for the specific guide. I'll carry out these tests over the coming days and post the results once completed. Hopefully they will either find the fault or help to narrow it done. Watch this space, regards.

[magg]

Hope it helps.