Relay and levers

[dgwebb]

Hi, first post (but been browsing for a couple of weeks) so please be gentle. I'm slowly fixing up my NC29 and some bits arrived today, my alarm (fitted, now worrying that it's too loud so not turning it on so it doesn't annoy the neighbours....) and my new clutch/brake lever (in yellow).

So my first question, I want to switch the indicators to LED ones, I can fit a new LED relay but I'm unsure as to the pin layout, is it two or three pin? Will a generic 2/3 pin relay work or do I require a specific Honda version? If I get the relay do I also need the resistors?

My second, I had a look at the levers and there doesn't seem to be much play in them, maybe a centimetre from fully open to fully closed, is that normal for aftermarket levers? I've never purchased non standard levers before so I have no idea how much play they should have, and fitting the clutch, pulling it in the full 1cm and not disengaging the clutch may cause a bit of an issue!

I'm sorry if these are really basic questions that have been asked a million times, but any help will be appreciated :)

/edit - a bit of googling seems to suggest the relay is a 12v 2pin B terminal positive, L terminal negative, is that correct for a 92 NC29?

[Davez29]

hi mate, first welcome to the club.

ok aftermarket levers, there is an adjuster on the brake, this is to be set up to your hand span. The main problem with some levers is that they dont give enough play and can be quite dangerous because of the lack of play the brakes will warm up and expand maybe to the point of locking the wheel. if you can take a look at the flat end and file a small amount from this side, a shave at a time till it feels right. if your unsure of doing this find a local "expert"to do this for you. for the clutch, sounds like cable adjustment needed. look at the cable at both ends for adjustment, maybe a cm loose free play at the lever before any cable is felt tigtening, thats just a guess as i do mine by feel. Just a thought on the cable, make sure the metal end cover is actually slotted in to the adjuster and not perched on the end of it which would give a similar feeling of no free play.

look in the v4 forum on your indicator question. its just been covered.

[dgwebb]

Thanks for the reply. I haven't put the levers on yet, when they arrived I checked how far the lever moved when pulled (well, pushed, there's a spring in there which pushes it down) and to my mind it didn't seem enough, though measuring the end movement it seems to move about 2 inches so maybe I'm just over-thinking things and looking at the movement in the wrong place, I was looking near the hinge which doesn't move far but I'm not going to get anywhere if I just procrastinate, I'll have to stick them on and give them a try!

Actually, now that I've looked at the brake lever... how does it work? Ohh, bikes are too interesting, the brake line goes into that bit at the front which doesn't seem to have any physical connection to the actual lever part which is pulled, ahh, maybe the lever bit itself doesn't move and the actual movement is play, so the 1-6 numbering with the dial sets how much play you feel before the lever moves, I'm excited to find out :D Ahem, that's my inner geek :)

[Davez29]

ahhh! it appears you have those race style levers, if this is the case maybe my answer may not be applicable. im sure some one with that style of lever can enlighten you better. The lever pushes a small piston on the master cylinder unit attached to the handlebar. im guessing the number 1 to 6 is just the span adjuster numbers. the oem version has no numbers just the dial.

Best thing would be to check on what you have on the bike and how they work. maybe get someone to help change them over, im sure once you change them you will see how they push the fluid through and work.

[dgwebb]

I've stuck them on and they just fit like a glove, I think I was too focused on the parts that move and didn't think about the pivot point, it pulls the clutch wire a good amount (will have to read my Haynes to properly adjust it) and pulls the brake a good amount too, so all in all, very pleased with the end result, well, maybe the clutch could pull a bit easier, I'll have to check that out in the Haynes too.

[petrolhead19]

Pretty straight forward to adjust the clutch cable, just turn the adjuster on the lever end anti clockwise so it pulls the cable tight and keep checking while doing it, if it doesn't engage/disengage properly, adjust the 12m bolts at the clutch casing end clockwise to pull the cable tight.
Just takes a bit of playing about to get it right for your specification :D

And welcome to the group

[dgwebb]

My bits arrived today to stick my indicators on, but I got confused over the relay, I thought it was a simple 2 pin job but that doesn't seem to be the case, is this my relay? (the one to the right next to the bolt)



Also, when looking there I found an odd switch, I have no idea what the switch is for, any ideas?



Sorry for picture quality, my phone battery went dead so had to use my vita's camera :-/

/edit - it does seem like that is the flasher relay, which begs the question, where can I get a replacement LED version? It looks the same as a CBR600 relay (I think) so is it an interchangeable part, could I use a CBR600's relay?

/edit 2 - had a bit of a brain wave, but probably totally out of whack. If I get a normal 3 pin LED relay, strip the wires off the bike and crimp on some connectors to each of the wires which then connect to the 3 pins, would that actually work, more importantly, would it be safe?

/edit 3 - I've ordered a 3 pin block relay type thing which *should* fit, then I can sort out the LED's, well, the rear LED's, the front I can't do until my replacement fairing arrives, I'm just glad the weather down here has been pretty reasonable so far (a bit of rain, no snow, lots of dryness and even sunshine).

Still have no idea what that switch is for, it's connected to a red wire which looking at my Haynes seems to suggest it's some kind of kill switch, maybe it's an immobilizer? I have no idea.