NC23 race bike....need help

[gilly1]

Hi people,

My mate has decided to race his NC23 with me next season but we aint got a clue what to do to it. There is a fuel pump that i dont know if it has to stay, dont know the best way to tune the bike and set carbs up etc etc. Any help and advise that people can give will be great. Btw he is on a budget so the cheaper tuning etc is required. Thanks for any help you can give :) Gilly

[PARUS]

Download HRC manual - it shows all you need, but there is new features came during this years - like suspension and so on.

[blueflag]

First thing is get rid of the alternator / windings and rectifier. Big weight loss and helps it spin up a lot faster, obviously you'll need to keep it charged between races.....
Race system and can.
On mine, I dropped the head and barrels a bit by getting rid of the base gasket to increase compression but unless you have access to an engineering workshop to offset the camshaft drive gears it's not do-able.
CBR600 shock and linkage.
Ignition advancer. (cheap bolt on)
NC29 rear wheel for better tyre choices.
520 chain and sprockets.
Etc.....

[DK-Tandy]

beet or simialr titanium exhaust systems (much lighter than ss or steel)
cutting the rear subframe
correct jetting etc
anything required for it to be on road needs to.. headlights, clocks (i think its the rev counter you keep), indicators, rear pegs,

dont go for the 600 shock and GF linkage..
just the BETOR Shock from him, it bolts straight in and increases handling dramatically from what i hear..

also get VFR lowers, with - SP1/CBR600rr nissins with Rick Oliver brackets for improved front end braking.

[tanuki]

The first and most important thing is the suspension get this sorted and your mate will go faster.

Weight loss is important but that goes without saying that you will be removing all of the road gear, other than that you are going to have to be looking at spending some cash on exhausts etc.

The fuel pump will have to stay as the tap sits to low to be gravity fed, you could get rid of the flywheel but I didnt like the engine characteristics when I removed mine and unless your mate had a genny then keeping the bike charged at races will be an issue, you could remove the starter motor but again probably more hassle than its worth especially if you have also removed the flywheel.

there is nothing wrong with the calipers on the bike they will happily stand the bike on its nose when serviced well although you get slightly better feel with the NC30 calipers and as you will be getting the suspension rebuilt and revalved you may as well go for 30 lowers or even better still MC28 NSR lowers I wouldnt bother using caliper brackets as you are just increasing unsprung weight and its just bling at the end of the day.

[Pleiades]

+1 on the suspension, for any bike. No amount of power is going to help you ride around corners.

See if you can get hold of Scott Travers. I can't remember what he calls himself here, but his 23 is a rocketship. Think he said he had it doing a 1.47 at Phillip Island

[Pleiades]

Found him - Scott Travers = stimpy

[kiwi racer]

+1 on the suspension, for any bike. No amount of power is going to help you ride around corners.

See if you can get hold of Scott Travers. I can't remember what he calls himself here, but his 23 is a rocketship. Think he said he had it doing a 1.47 at Phillip Island

Stimpy is just an export Kiwi so what would he know. Yer his bikes fast but if you really want a great bike do what he did and call Greame France. I have been racing the 23s for about 9 years now and after a few titles i can claim to have a few recipies rite , mine was measured at over 60hp and handled like a dream. One 400 we built here was measured at 90hp and went like a bustid blowfly.