Get Home with Failed Battery.

[magg]

Cammo I would be interested in the scenario for your barbeque.

A suggestion I would make that should find general acceptance, is to apply thermal heat transfer paste between the base of the rect/reg and the frame mount if possible. This will improve the heat dissipation and thereby reduce the risk of failure of the rect/reg.

[Cammo]

Yeah good tip, I always use silver heatsink paste.

This bike was fitted with a much bigger R6 reg/rect (have never had a problem with these). It was the stator to blame for my problems in the end.

[magg]

Cammo, any specific details of what preceded the failure? Odd that a stator fault could cause just a dramatic outcome.

On the subject of making the charging system, if not bullet proof, at least impervious to rect/reg failure, I suggest the inclusion of a crow-bar circuit and fuses to protect the electrical system from over-voltage. The worst outcome would then be limited to a blown fuse or two. As the OEM design stands there is no protection from a rect/reg failure that results in uncontrolled output from the alternator.

[Ben_OB1]

To avoid having to worry so much about heat dissipation, have a look at replacing your conventional Reg/Rec with a MOSFET type.

By all reports they are far more reliable and run much cooler. I have just fitted a Yamaha R1 MOSFET unit to my NC35, seems to be purring nicely so far... a constant 14.1 volts.

Ben.

[Cammo]

Cammo, any specific details of what preceded the failure? Odd that a stator fault could cause just a dramatic outcome.

I'm not too sure on the details, that's why this caught me with such a surprise. The charging system checked out within specs prior to this, opened up the engine cover to find the stator in pretty poor condition.

The nc30 loom and electrical system doesn't fill me with confidence, the rvf loom, connectors and cdi are much more robust.

Yeah, these days I would use mosfet reg/recs, much better units.

[magg]

Mosfet rect/reg will have lower dissipation and therefore in theory should be more reliable but the power not dissipated by the reg will now be returned to make the stator warmer and I would still use thermal heat transfer paste.

The best solution is a series switch rect/reg of which the Compu Fire brand is one I am aware of. No power dissipation issues with it or the stator but need to be aware that the alternator will run open circuit when no charge is required, maybe up to 200 volts, and this high voltage is a factor that has to be accommodated within the design as much as the current/power factors affect the reliability of the more conventional designs.

[magg]

To clarify my earlier comments regarding FET type rect/reg units, there are two types. One that operates in a similar manner to the NC30 OEM unit but can run cooler and a second type as fitted to the Yamaha R1 (Shindengen FH012AA). The FH012AA uses a different principal that is much more efficient, ie runs cool, and only draws enough power from the engine to run the bike. The OEM unit and the first FET type waste power, ie horsepower, as heat no matter what the electrical oad presented by the bike.

I would concur with the comments of Ben_OB1, if anyone needs a replacement rect/reg go the the FH012AA type.