Forward engine mountings sheared :(

[redlinerpm]

whats the base metal of the casting???? anyone know???

I could get them welded on at work. The thread needs cleaned out (I havent checked the bolt yet but is a 14mm fine?)and maybe a helicoil fitted on one side. When we weld alloy or castings at work we need to heat treat them to bring them back to the materials original condtion(depending on the material)
But I will look into it, as like I said the engine run nice!

cheers guys, these forums are a wealth of information !

Hi there,

The thread is an M10x1.25mm. I have a spare front head for an NC30 if it is any good to you?

Thanks

NC35

Pm`d
:)

[veefer400]

it's a regular thing i'm afraid.I take mine to an engineering company to have them welded back on.

Or I could sell you another engine.

errr.... just how many times has this happened to you??

[Dgeoff33]

around 10 times I would say and I still have 4 or 5 bikes that I haven't checked yet but i'd be surprised if none have broken mounts.

[fastdruid]

around 10 times I would say and I still have 4 or 5 bikes that I haven't checked yet but i'd be surprised if none have broken mounts.

So do they break in normal use or just in crashes?

Druid

[veefer400]

I would hope its in crashes - having said that its not natural to crash that much that hard??

Not on the road anyways...

[Brainchild]

I've had this, but only on one side of the bike. Looking on Ebay tho, you can usually find at least one NC engine thats got cracked-off mounts, so I believe its a common occurance. Strange, tho, as its not like Honda to drop the ball on a structural part...
Anyway, I had mine welded by an expert, but I was warned that doing it with that section of the engine still attached to the block will warp all your seals and gaskets, as (as said b4) aluminium needs to be heated as a whole in order to get a strong weld; heating just on area is not as effective. The fella wouldn't give me a guarantee on the job because of this. I also found that the crack had extended into the cooling jacket, causing the coolant to leak from the join. My solution was to empty the system and apply metal putty to the area to both seal the crack and add more strength to the area. I haven't put the coolant back in yet due to another job needing the rads off, so can't say if this method works... yet.