nc30 forks

[bladerunner]

Hi
I've got a new nc30 (M reg 1992 onwards R3n) and it needs new forks. Can anybody explain if there is a difference in the earlier model forks as I am going to look at some tomorrow.

My forks need rechroming and servicing and new fork tops which in all ig going to be about £300 so just thought it might be cheaper to get some others.

Any help would be appreciated

thanks :)

[fumb]

Isn't m reg 1994?

[bladerunner]

yeah, its 1994/1995. sorry i meant the model i have is the 1992 onwards, the r3n.

[Smev]

Later type forks have more adjustment on them - either preload or compression or rebound as an extra. the earlier ones lack one of these adjusters.
Sorry its not more specific but suspension is a black art to me!!! lol
A good place is to look on fleabay for a set - or on here - but £300 quid is alot - I just sold a set of late type fork for £100 - so they are about for cheaper than the £300 you've said about.
Hope that helps
Smev

[CMSMJ1]

the early forks are a damping rod fork where holes in the rod alow the oil through and does not allow easy adjustability. They have preload adjustment on the forktops and will be missing the little brass screw you have on your forks.
You can fill the holes and redrill if you have the skills but this is where the design falls down as it is a a damping rate that has to cope with small hits and big hits via the same damping holes/circuit

Saying that, the older model (on 1989 NC30 K models only) can be set up to work very well (I have some )

The newer fork is a cartridge fork and has a sealed cartridge. This uses shims and is a more modern type of fork. It is adjustable externally for rebound via the brass screw. You can also adjust it internaly by altering the shims which is much easier than drilling holes etc.

You have several options either way.

Buy a cheap set of stanchions and rebuild your forks
Buy a cheap set of early forks and use them as std.
If you don't like them you can buy cartridge emulator kits to allow them ti be tuned using shims etc
Buy a set of later model forks and use them as std
if you don't like them you can get the infamous "gold valve" kit for thee to tune the shims.

Either way - both models of fork are good enough for scratching about..depends what you want to do really...

Hope this helps

[russ tyson]

Ive got a set at home £150+post they are in very good condition later style fully repainted in silver 6 months ago with new oil,oil seals and dust seals genuine honda parts also new mudguard holders caliper brackets for 600rr calipers ,2 mudguards one white one carbon. fully repainted yokes and handlebars included also fully replated axel and spacers and bolts all that you need is bearings and the top nut.Preload adjusters as well

Im only selling them as ive got a rvf front end with billet yokes so they was going on ebay anyway. all paint is done by a company so is strong

Email me if you want some pics russ100ccmonkey at yahoo dot co dot uk

Thanks Russ
Edit heres some pics note the fork lowers were on my bike for 6months so arnt imaculate but you need to look close,the yokes clipons etc wernt fitted so are like new.end bungs I made in the lathe and do the job nice :)

[Wilson]

Saying that, the older model (on 1989 NC30 K models only) can be set up to work very well (I have some )

The newer fork is a cartridge fork and has a sealed cartridge. This uses shims and is a more modern type of fork. It is adjustable externally for rebound via the brass screw. You can also adjust it internaly by altering the shims which is much easier than drilling holes etc.

You have several options either way.

Buy a cheap set of stanchions and rebuild your forks
Buy a cheap set of early forks and use them as std.
If you don't like them you can buy cartridge emulator kits to allow them ti be tuned using shims etc
Buy a set of later model forks and use them as std
if you don't like them you can get the infamous "gold valve" kit for thee to tune the shims.

Sorry for the thread necrosis. I'm curious as to the infamy of the gold valves. I'm about to do up my (early) forks (for real this time. I'm in the middle of composing Rick an email), and was looking seriously at these. They actually look not to be that infamous at all, seeing I can't find any information for or against . Does anyone have experience with these? Second hand comments? Something they read on a toilet wall?

I've decided to be sensible and rebuild the front without going nuts on replacement forks and whatnot... but if the outlay would net me something that brings a noticable increase in feel or performance, I'd still be interested.